Dodecanese Part Two: 3 Days in Kos – The Love Story Continues
Last updated on : November 5, 2025
Part Two : Kos
Kos, the third largest island in the Dodecanese, is the birthplace of Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine (around 460–377 BC). The island is known for its beaches, lively nightlife, and rich historical heritage.
The best time to visit is from April to October. The months of June, July, and August – considered high season – are ideal for those seeking a festive and energetic atmosphere. However, this period can also experience overtourism, so it’s preferable to visit in shoulder season if you prefer a quieter pace.
We spent 3 nights in Kos during our trip in September 2025, and honestly, a few extra days would have been welcome to fully savor its gentle rhythm.
What I loved about Kos was its calmer, less touristic atmosphere compared to Rhodes. Its peaceful energy made us feel like the island itself was breathing a little more slowly.
And for those who, like us, enjoy history and culture, Kos is full of ancient sites to explore – not to mention its stunning landscapes.
So, to share a little of our experience on this peaceful and charming island, let me take you through our days in Kos… And, as always, you can relive these moments through the video montages I’ve added at the end of the article.
Day 5 : Arrival to Kos Town
We left the island of Rhodes early that morning aboard the Dodekanisos Seaways ferry (€39 per person, purchased on FerriesinGreece.com) toward the island of Kos. The crossing takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes, with a brief stop on the island of Symi.
Upon arriving in Kos, we immediately felt a change in atmosphere. It doesn’t have the same medieval charm as Rhodes’ Old Town: it’s less touristy and more authentic. And I really liked that…
We walked about 20 minutes to reach our accommodation. Arriving before check-in time, our apartment wasn’t ready yet, but the staff kindly offered to store our luggage at reception, which allowed us to start exploring the area right away.
We spent the rest of the day discovering Kos Town. The city is home to several beautiful free archaeological sites, such as the Tree of Hippocrates, the Ancient Agora, and the Roman Odeon. These ruins are not preserved to the same degree as those in Rhodes, but they are still very pleasant to visit and offer a wonderful glimpse into the island’s rich past.
We also visited Casa Romana (€10 per person), a 3rd-century Roman villa reconstructed on top of Hellenistic ruins. It provides a vivid look into aristocratic life at the time, with mosaic floors, frescoes, and sculptures that are beautifully preserved. I particularly loved the fact that it was rebuilt directly over the original foundations — it makes the visit feel much more concrete and immersive.
We ended the day at Eleftherias Square, where we visited Agia Paraskevi Church, magnificent, like every church we crossed during our stay in Greece. Finally, we visited the Archaeological Museum of Kos (€10 per person). Although smaller than the one in Rhodes, it left a strong impression on me. Its statues and exceptionally preserved mosaics were a true favorit, a perfect way to close this beautiful first day on the island.
Day 6 : Excursion to Nysiros
We took this day to discover another island in the Dodecanese: Nisyros.
We were picked up around 8:00 AM, near our accommodation, by a bus that took us to Kardamena Port. The Princess Maria ferry left around 9:30 AM for a crossing of about one hour.
This excursion was a little different from our day trip to Symi, as a guided visit was included for part of the itinerary in the village of Mandraki. Although the guide was friendly, I would have preferred having more free time to wander at my own pace. I felt like I missed precious time to explore the village the way I would have liked.
Still, we made the most of the two hours of free time we had afterward by following the coastal path leading to Paralia Chochlaki Beach. The contrast between the stone pavement, the volcanic pebbles, and the powerful waves crashing against the rocks was breathtakingly beautiful.
We then climbed up to the Panagia Spiliani Monastery (€2 per person, not included in the excursion), perched at the top of the hill. Peaceful and lovely, it offers an impressive view over the village. We wandered through a few narrow streets before returning to the terrace of the restaurant we had seen earlier. Since our time was limited, we had to eat quickly before heading out to visit the volcano.
Around 1:30 PM, we took a bus from the port to reach the Nisyros volcano, which is still active, though safe for visitors. Its main crater, Stefanos, is one of the largest and best preserved in the world. You can observe fumaroles, smell the strong scent of sulfur, and feel the heat of the ground beneath your feet.
For €5 per person (not included in the excursion), it is possible to enter the crater and walk inside – a strange and fascinating experience.
After about thirty minutes on site, we took the bus back to the port, where our boat was waiting for the return to Kos.
Even though visiting the volcano was truly unique and impressive, I felt that we didn’t have enough time to really enjoy the island. The village of Mandraki truly deserves more time: I would have loved to wander along the waterfront and explore its quiet streets at my own rhythm.
Day 7 : Freedom in 4×4
This last day on the island of Kos was my favorite. We started around 9:00 AM, when we picked up our 4×4 to explore the island at our own pace. The plan was simple: drive all the way to the far end of the island and make our way back toward Kos Town, stopping wherever we felt called to.
Our adventure began with a visit to the Saint John the Baptist Holy Orthodox Chapel of Thyme, a beautiful white chapel with a blue roof, offering panoramic views of the Aegean Sea and the surrounding landscape.
We then continued to what I believe is one of the most beautiful light-sand beaches on the island: Kavo Paradiso Beach. The drive to get there was an adventure in itself: a rough road through arid landscapes that required a bit of patience, but the reward was worth every minute. Once we arrived, we took the time to walk barefoot along the shoreline. It’s one of my favorite things to do in the world.
Next, we headed to Agios Stefanos Beach, known for its picturesque setting and the ruins of ancient basilica right by the sea. While the place is often described as a perfect mix of history and relaxation, it didn’t quite resonate with us. Personally, I think we could have skipped it.
As hunger started to set in, we stopped at Magic Beach for lunch at the beachfront restaurant. The beach itself is lovely, quieter and less touristy than others nearby, but we didn’t take the time to enjoy it, as we still had several historical sites we wanted to visit.
In the afternoon, we visited Antimachia Castle, and it turned out to be the biggest surprise of the day. I wasn’t sure about going, based on some mixed reviews I had read, but I ended up being captivated by this fortress. Within its preserved walls, you can wander through the remains of an ancient village and two small churches. The views over the sea and surrounding landscape are spectacular, and the peaceful atmosphere is truly enchanting. The site appears to be free, but a man in historical costume stands at the entrance offering to take photos – we simply left a small tip.
We then continued to Palio Pyli Castle, another beautiful site offering stunning views. The climb isn’t the easiest, but the ruins, mostly Byzantine, are fascinating. Once again, access is free – you simply pay with a bit of sweat, but the effort is well worth it.
We also made a short stop in the village of Zia, though it didn’t charm us. Very touristy, it mainly attracts visitors for its famous sunsets and artisan shops. I think I would have preferred discovering a more typical and authentic village.
Finally, we ended our day at the Asklepion, an archaeological site founded in the 4th century BC and dedicated to Asclepius, symbol of healing and medical teaching. This is where Hippocrates, the founder of modern medicine, studied and taught. Built in terraces, the site offers exceptional views of the Aegean Sea and the Turkish coast. This last panoramic view was a beautiful way to conclude our stay in Kos.
If I Had More Time
After these few days filled with discoveries, I would have gladly extended our stay to explore this charming island a little more.
I would have loved to visit the abandoned village of Haihoutes – a ghost village full of history, offering a glimpse into the past with its picturesque ruins and traditional taverna.
But most of all, Kos has so many beautiful beaches, and we didn’t have enough time to enjoy them fully.
I would have loved to go on a small beach-hopping tour, simply to savor the island’s sweetness a little longer.
How to Get Around Kos
Just like in Rhodes, getting around Kos was very easy: the island is simple to explore and offers several options depending on your preferences and budget. Here are the main ways to move around the island:
- 🚗 Renting a car: A favorite option for travelers who want to explore freely. A security deposit is usually required. Daily rates generally range from €15 to €60, but can reach €60–€90 per day for an SUV or 4×4.
- 🛵 Renting a scooter, quad or buggy: Also very popular. Rates are usually €20–€40/day for a scooter and €45–€60/day for a quad. For buggies, expect around €125–€175/day.
- 🚌 Buses: The KTEL bus network connects the main towns, offering an economical option for traveling between cities, with fares ranging from €1 to €6. However, the efficiency of the network is not as strong as on the island of Rhodes.
- 🚕 Taxis: A practical solution for short distances or late-night arrivals. Fares are generally fixed per ride or per kilometer, with a base pick-up fee. Private transfers are also available.
- 🚢 Ferries or ✈️ Flights: Both are common ways to reach the island or travel between islands. There are also many day cruises to nearby islands
We used the KTEL bus to travel between Kos Town and the airport (€3.50 per person).
We also explored the island using a 4×4 rented from Moto Harley (€70/day with a €150 deposit). This was an incredible experience that allowed us to visit many places on my must-see list. For those interested in guided excursions, Moto Harley also offers 4×4 and quad tours through GetYourGuide.
Finally, for our day trip to Nisyros, we went with Kos Activities (€30 per person). They picked us up in Kos Town and drove us to Kardamena Port, where we boarded the ferry. A pleasant experience that we booked through GetYourGuide.
Where to Stay in Rhodes
For our stay on the island of Kos, we chose Aspa Holiday Apartments. The apartment was modern and well equipped, with everything we look for in this type of accommodation. We especially appreciated having access to a washing machine – a real bonus in the middle of a trip.
The location is ideal for anyone who wants to explore Kos Town on foot.
The only small downside: the reception desk has limited opening hours, which can be a bit inconvenient if you need something outside those times. For example, we would have liked to request warmer blankets, but we were often out and about during reception hours, so we couldn’t ask.
💲Rate in September 2025: approximately €97 per night for a Deluxe One-Bedroom Apartment. Breakfast is not included, but a kitchenette is available.
Where to Eat in Rhodes
During our days in Kos and Nisyros, we ate very well. Here are the places we tried, along with my impressions:
- Active The Baguette Shop (Kos): A nice little spot where you can enjoy sandwiches made on baguette-style bread. Perfect for a quick and simple lunch.
- Alberto Restaurant Grill House & Seafood (Kos): My favorite restaurant on the island! I had an absolutely unforgettable Shrimp Saganaki here… and all of it enjoyed on a seaside terrace. 🩵
- Magic Beach Restaurant (Kos): We stopped here for lunch and enjoyed a delicious souvlaki skewer meal, with a beautiful view of the beach.
- Socrates (Kos): Another excellent restaurant where the food was delicious and the service was impeccable. We had a truly lovely time here.
- Pizzeria MamaRosa (Kos): In the mood for pizza? This is the place. We really enjoyed both the food and the friendly service.
- Gelato Di Nonna (Kos): We tried some gelato here – a bit sweet for my taste, but still very good.
- Pikoupas Bakker (Kos): We picked up pastries here the morning of our excursion. Everything was fresh and tasty.
- Restaurant Vegos (Nisyros): We had our meal on a lovely shaded terrace. The food was excellent, the portions generous (as almost everywhere in Greece!), and the service very pleasant.
In conclusion
If I had to summarize my time in Kos in one word, it would be freedom. The freedom to explore at my own pace, to wander, to stop wherever my heart felt drawn. Kos is an island that invites you to slow down, savor, and simply let yourself be carried.
Kos offered me a different face of Greece – calmer, more authentic, and deeply soothing. It’s a shame our stay was so short…
But one thing is certain: this island charmed me with its diversity and gentle way of life.
And you, what is it that captures your heart when you travel?
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