Morocco | Part Two: 3 Days in Fez – Immersed in the Medina and Traditional Moroccan Life
Last updated on : January 5, 2026
Part Two: Fez
Fez is often considered the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco. Founded in the 9th century, the city is home to one of the best-preserved – and most carefully restored – medinas in the Arab world. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the medina of Fez is a true labyrinth of narrow alleyways, lively souks, madrasas, palaces, fountains, and artisan workshops where traditional skills are still passed down from generation to generation.
When we first began planning our itinerary in Morocco, Fez was not necessarily on our original list. At that time, we were especially drawn to Chefchaouen, the famous blue city that attracts so many travelers. As we refined our planning, we realized that several excursions departed directly from Fez – and that’s how the city naturally found its place in our itinerary.
We spent 3 nights there during our trip in November 2025, which allowed us to explore the city at a comfortable pace, without rushing.
What I particularly loved about Fez is its authenticity, deeply rooted in history. The medina is not only well preserved, but also remarkably restored. Significant investments have been made to bring buildings, Quranic schools, palaces, and public spaces back to life, all while respecting their original architecture. The result is striking: the visits are beautiful, the sites impressive, and every turn reveals something new.
You can truly feel that the restoration work enhances the heritage rather than altering it. The beauty of the architecture, the richness of the details, and the atmosphere that permeates the medina make Fez a deeply memorable city – one we truly enjoyed exploring.
Day 2 : Arrival in Fez
🧳 Settling into the Riad
We arrived at the Fez train station late in the morning. As soon as we stepped off the train, we didn’t have to look far – someone was already waiting for us outside, holding a sign with the name of our accommodation. We had arranged our transfer in advance with the riad where we were staying, and they had booked a taxi to pick us up at the station.
We followed the driver, who took us to a drop-off point at the entrance of the medina. Since taxis are not allowed to enter the medina, this is where the ride ended. Payment was made at that moment, as expected.
That’s when a luggage transport service was offered to us – or rather, imposed. Even though we were only carrying backpacks and could easily have handled them ourselves, a man arrived – after a call from the taxi driver – with a small cart to transport our bags to the riad. At the time, we didn’t really feel like we had a choice. We were repeatedly told that he would take us there and that everything would be fine. We eventually assumed he might be an employee of the riad.
The walk was indeed very short, but it was only upon arrival that we were asked for 30 dirhams. The tip we had initially planned was apparently not enough, and we were asked to add a bit more. Nothing dramatic—but it was our first real moment of thinking: “Okay… we need to adapt, understand the local codes, and be a bit more attentive.” A small travel lesson, let’s say.
Thankfully, that feeling quickly faded once we arrived at Riad Tayba. We were warmly welcomed by Layla, the staff member I had been in contact with while organizing our stay. She was also the one who had coordinated the transportation. The welcome was genuine, attentive, and very reassuring.
Once settled in, we felt that we were in the right place. The contrast between the hectic arrival and the calm, gentle atmosphere of the riad marked the true beginning of our stay in Fez.
🚶♀️🚶♂️ First Step in the Medina
After taking a few minutes to settle in, we decided to head out on foot to start exploring the medina. We were a little hungry, and the idea was simply to find a place to eat while getting our first feel for the surroundings. I had noted a few addresses in advance – Cafe Clock among them – but we quickly realized that finding our way around the medina wasn’t that simple, especially on a first outing.
We got lost several times, which almost felt like part of the experience. We would later realize that we had actually walked right past Cafe Clock more than once without noticing it. Since we weren’t truly starving yet, we decided to drop the idea of eating right away and just keep walking, telling ourselves that we would eventually find something along the way.
🤩 First Visits & Architectural Awe
Turning a corner in a narrow alley, a beautifully decorated doorway caught our attention. It was the entrance to the Bou Inania Madrasa, and we decided to visit it on the spot (20 dirhams per person). This visit marked our first true immersion into traditional Moroccan architecture, beyond the riad. The details, the proportions, the finesse of the craftsmanship… everything was impressive. We were immediately captivated.
We then continued our exploration toward the Dar Batha Museum. To get there, we exited the medina through Bab Boujloud, the famous Blue Gate of Fez. Recently restored, it is striking with its blue mosaics on the outer side – so emblematic of the city – and its green tiles on the inside, symbols of Islam and spirituality. It’s a meaningful passage, both visually and symbolically, gently marking the transition between the lively energy of the medina and a calmer environment.
As for the Dar Batha Museum (60 dirhams per person), housed in a former palace, its gardens are beautiful, and the collections offer a deeper understanding of Moroccan history and craftsmanship. It was a visit that was both pleasant and informative, adding yet another layer to our sense of wonder.
A little further on, we passed by the Jnan Sbil Gardens, which I had already spotted through beautiful photos shared in Facebook travel groups. We went in for a short walk, without lingering too long, as we felt time slipping away and still wanted to see several other places. That said, the gardens are truly lovely and a pleasure to stroll through – a real green oasis in the heart of the city.
Finally, we continued our exploration through the Mellah, the former Jewish quarter of Fez. The architecture there is beautiful and noticeably different from the rest of the medina. From there, we made our way to the Royal Palace, famous for its large golden doors. Even though it can only be visited from the outside, it is absolutely worth the stop.
Up to that point, everything was going smoothly. We were still carried by curiosity and the excitement of discovery. But by late afternoon, hunger began to set in…
💥 Getting Lost Again… and Sensory Overload
As we tried to make our way back to a restaurant I had previously spotted – The Ruined Garden – we once again got lost in the medina.
From that point on, the experience became more difficult. Every time we stopped for just a few seconds to check our phone, several people would rush toward us to tell us which way to go, sometimes quite insistently. That constant pressure in the narrow alleys of the medina was simply too much. I could feel the enjoyment slowly giving way to irritation. The fatigue, the hunger, the confusion, the pressure… everything started to pile up. At that point, we decided to leave the medina and head toward an area that felt easier to navigate.
We eventually found a restaurant near Bab Boujloud, where I chose something very simple and reassuring – pasta. I truly needed to regain a sense of familiarity, and that bit of comfort food was exactly what I needed at that moment.
💤 Back to the Riad
As night began to fall, and since I didn’t feel comfortable continuing to wander through the medina after dark, we decided to head back to the riad. It was definitely the right decision.
We took the evening slowly, without pushing ourselves, and went to bed relatively early. This first day in Fez had been rich, intense, and beautiful in many ways… but also demanding. I felt completely torn between “I love it” and “I hate it at the same time.” It was clearly an adjustment day – the kind that often happens at the beginning of this type of journey.
Day 3 : Volubilis & Meknes
Originally, our itinerary included an excursion to Chefchaouen, which had really caught our attention during the planning stage. However, a few weeks before departure, we realized that this day would involve a lot of bus travel over a long period of time. At that point, we didn’t feel like stacking too many long transfers into an already full trip.
So we decided to adjust our plans and replace Chefchaouen with an excursion to Volubilis and Meknes – and we have absolutely no regrets about that decision.
The archaeological site of Volubilis was a true highlight 🩵 of this part of our stay in Fez. Walking among the Roman ruins brought back everything we had loved so much in Greece: history in the open air, remarkably well-preserved remains, and that powerful feeling of stepping back in time. It was a meaningful visit, without having to spend endless hours on the road.
Because this day was so rich and so different from the rest of our time in Fez, I chose to dedicate a full article to it.
👉 Read the detailed article on Volubilis & Meknes
Day 4 : Medina & Hammam
🧭 Exploring the Medina with a Local Guide
For this day, we decided to hire a local French-speaking guide – a decision made somewhat at the last minute, after spending our first day getting lost in the medina. The guide met us directly at our riad, where we sat together in the small lounge for an initial introduction.
For quite a while, he explained the basics to us: religion, culture, how things work in Morocco, and how the medina itself is organized. He talked about the differences between a riad and a dar, the layout of homes built around inner courtyards, the importance of interior gardens, and the logic behind this inward-facing architecture. It was a very interesting introduction, and it immediately gave deeper meaning to everything we were about to see.
We then explored the medina with him for about three and a half hours. Throughout the walk, he shared a wealth of information, anecdotes, and historical context. Very quickly, we realized that this guided tour was a true “game changer“: for the first time, we understood where we were, what we were seeing, and why the medina is structured the way it is.
🏺 Iconic Sites & Restored Heritage
Throughout the visit, our guide led us to several significant landmarks. We notably stopped in front of the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, which is visible only from the outside for non-Muslims. Even without being able to enter, the site is impressive, and we took the time to line up to capture a few photos of this iconic place. – arriving just before a large group, which made us smile.
He also explained the role of the Foundouks, these former caravanserais that once served as hotels and trading hubs for merchants traveling from afar. Many of them have been restored, and it’s fascinating to see how these spaces are being brought back to life today.
We then visited the Nejjarine Foundouk (20 dirhams per person), home to the Wood Arts Museum. Spread over several levels, the site is beautiful, and the terrace offers a stunning view over the rooftops of the medina. A true highlight of the visit.
Even though we had already visited the Bou Inania Madrasa the day before, our guide suggested discovering another one: the Attarine Madrasa (20 dirhams per person). This time, we were able to access the students’ living quarters, which we hadn’t seen previously. With the guide’s explanations, the visit took on an entirely different dimension.
🎨 Artisans & Tanneries
The visit continued with stops at various artisan workshops. We were first taken to a metalworking workshop, where we were shown the differences between items sold in the souks and those made by traditional artisans. The intention was interesting, but everything happened very quickly. After a few minutes of explanations, we were invited to look at the objects… and then to buy.
I ended up giving in and buying a small camel figurine – cute, but clearly overpriced. Despite trying to negotiate, I never managed to lower the price enough. From that moment on, I felt something close off inside me. The feeling of being taken advantage of settled in, and I completely lost the desire to buy anything else.
The same pattern repeated itself in a textile workshop: a quick demonstration, followed by subtle pressure to purchase. Once the artisans realized we weren’t interested, their attention quickly shifted to other tourists.
The tanneries were also among the must-see spots we wanted to experience. The view from the terrace is impressive, and the scene itself is absolutely worth seeing. However, the explanations given on site were very brief and rushed, sounding more like a mechanically repeated speech than a genuine moment of cultural sharing. Very quickly, the commercial aspect took over, once again leaving us with mixed feelings about the overall experience.
⚖️ A Nuanced Assessment, But a Wise Choice
At the end of the visit, the guide asked whether we wanted to return to the riad on our own or if we preferred that he walk us back. Without hesitation, we chose to have him accompany us. We knew we still had another activity planned afterward, and we didn’t want to risk getting lost again.
Even though the end of the tour felt a bit rushed – possibly because we hadn’t purchased anything in the workshops – the overall assessment remains very positive. Having a guide completely transformed our experience of the medina. The sites were beautiful, the explanations invaluable, and our understanding of the city much deeper.
Despite a few more delicate moments, this private guided tour was an investment (500 dirhams, about $75 CAD) that was absolutely worth it, and one I would wholeheartedly recommend to better understand and appreciate Fez.
Since our riad handled the booking with the guide, I don’t have a specific contact to share. However, there are many guided medina tours available on GetYourGuide – you may very well find one that suits you perfectly.
💆♀️ Hammam & Massage : an Experice Both Surprising and Soothing
After our guided tour of the medina, we had an appointment at the spa of Riad Laaroussa to experience a traditional hammam followed by a massage. It was a moment we were curious about, without really knowing what to expect.
Upon arrival, a slight delay made us wait a few minutes – but honestly, it wasn’t an issue at all. We waited peacefully in the riad’s gardens, which were absolutely beautiful, calm, and soothing. When they came to apologize for the wait, our reaction was spontaneous: no, no, everything is perfectly fine. The place naturally invited us to slow down.
We were then led to a small private changing room, where we could leave our belongings safely. We were given disposable underwear – very minimalistic – as well as robes, and then guided into the warm hammam room. Once inside, the robes quickly come off… and the experience begins.
Lying on a marble bench, we waited for the ritual to start. Warm water, black soap, rinses, being turned over… everything was done very naturally, with precision – and explanations at every step – without any sense of discomfort from the practitioners. At one point, a clay-based mask was applied to the skin, then rinsed off after a short pause.
What surprised – and struck – me the most during this experience was the relationship to nudity. Everything is done with great simplicity, without any sexual connotation, but with a disarming ease. At several moments, I found myself topless during the treatments, which culturally is very far from what we’re used to back home. I’m not particularly modest, so it wasn’t an issue for me… but I couldn’t help thinking that many people I know in Québec would probably have felt quite unsettled.
That contrast really stayed with me: in public Moroccan life, modesty is very present, especially for women. And yet, in the intimacy of a hammam, everything seems to dissolve. This duality felt almost contradictory, but also deeply disorienting. A real cultural shock.
After the hammam, we were invited to take a shower while the room was cleaned, then settle into another space for a short break. Water, a small snack… a calm moment before continuing. We then moved on to a massage of about 45 minutes, just as surprising in its simplicity and naturalness, yet extremely relaxing.
To conclude the experience, we were invited up to the riad’s terrace to enjoy a mint tea. From up there, the view over the rooftops of the medina was beautiful, especially at the end of the day. A moment of absolute calm, perfectly balancing the intensity we had experienced earlier in the medina.
After this timeless pause of relaxation, we slowly stepped back into the medina’s narrow streets, still wrapped in that feeling of calm and release. We took our time wandering without any particular goal, simply looking for a place to have dinner before returning to the riad.
That’s when we came across Culture Box, a restaurant with a colorful, warm décor that immediately caught our eye. The place felt inviting, and we decided to stop there for dinner.
As the day came to an end, we then returned to the riad to pack our bags and rest. The next day, we set off for Marrakech, and this quiet evening was exactly what we needed to close such a full and intense day.
Day 5 : Train Journey from Fez to Marrakech
Our last morning in Fez started very early, as we had a long train journey ahead of us to reach Marrakech. Since we didn’t have time to eat breakfast on site, the owner of Riad Tayba, Mohamed, kindly prepared a breakfast to go for us. A simple gesture, but one that was deeply appreciated – especially with such an early departure.
He had also arranged our transportation for the departure. Mohamed personally walked us to the meeting point near the post office, at the entrance of the medina, and stayed with us until the driver arrived to take us to the station. A thoughtful and reassuring service, right until the very end.
Once at the train station, we bought a few snacks and something to drink for the journey. Combined with the breakfast prepared by the riad, we were perfectly equipped for the seven-hour train ride ahead.
The journey went very smoothly. The landscapes passing by the window were beautiful, and the atmosphere on board was rather calm. A peaceful moment, free of stress or confusion.
If I Had More Time
With a little more time, I think my experience of the medina would have evolved even further. Toward the end of our stay, I was finally starting to feel more comfortable – more confident navigating the narrow alleyways, and less dependent on my phone to find my way. If I had had an extra half day or a full day, I probably would have allowed myself to get lost on purpose in the medina, with no specific goal, simply to observe, wander, and discover at my own pace.
At that point, I believe the constant presence of people offering to guide us would have felt less intrusive. The medina is so beautiful, rich, and alive that taking the time to get lost in it almost feels like part of the experience – something I didn’t fully allow myself to do, simply because of a lack of time and energy.
I also would have loved to take the time to admire the medina from above. There are several spots around Fez, particularly in the surrounding hills, that offer breathtaking views over the entire medina. Whether at the end of the day or at sunset, I think that moment would have added another, more peaceful perspective to our stay.
Finally, if we had had more time, I might have let myself be convinced to go all the way to Chefchaouen, even if it meant more transportation. In hindsight, the long excursion days during our trip turned out to be less exhausting than I had imagined before leaving. Chefchaouen therefore remains a small regret—but above all, a wonderful excuse to perhaps return one day and discover this blue city, which seems to offer an almost Mediterranean atmosphere.
How to Get Around Fez
As in many cities across Morocco, there are several ways to get around Fez, depending on where you are and the type of travel involved.
🚶 On Foot in the Medina
Since the medina of Fez is largely pedestrian, walking is the most common way to explore its historic core. In our opinion, it’s also the best way to truly experience the architecture, the atmosphere, and the countless details that give the medina its unique charm. It was by far the mode of transportation we used the most during our stay.
🚕 Taxis
In Fez, as elsewhere in Morocco, there are two types of taxis:
- Small taxis, generally used for getting around the city and areas surrounding the medina. They are red in color, just like in Casablanca.
- Grand taxis, often white, used for longer distances or to connect key points such as the train station.
We mainly used taxis for traveling between the train station and our riad. As always, it’s recommended to agree on the fare before getting in, or to make sure the meter is used when possible.
🚗 Renting a Car
Renting a car is also an option, especially if you plan to explore several regions of Morocco independently. However, for a stay focused on Fez and its immediate surroundings, it’s not necessarily the easiest solution. Traffic can be heavy and driving habits sometimes unpredictable, which may make the experience stressful for some travelers.
And finally, since the medina is pedestrian-only, parking would also need to be factored in.
🚌 Organized Excursions
For excursions farther away – such as our day trip to Volubilis and Meknes – we opted for an organized tour that included transportation by minibus. It’s a convenient, stress-free option for exploring the surrounding areas without having to manage logistics or driving yourself.
Where to Stay in Fez
During our stay in Fez, we chose to stay at Riad Tayba, and it was a true favorite. From the moment we arrived, we were charmed by the character of the place: traditional architecture, a warm atmosphere, and a riad that perfectly matched what we were looking for to experience an authentic immersion in the heart of the medina.
We stayed in the Andalouse Suite, a spacious suite located on the ground floor, opening directly onto the interior lounge and the patio. The space was comfortable, well laid out, and very pleasant – both for resting and for soaking in the peaceful atmosphere of the riad. Even though we did explore the terraces, we mainly enjoyed the indoor spaces, especially the lounge, which was a lovely place to unwind after long days of sightseeing.
Breakfast, which was included in the rate, was a real highlight. It was generous, varied, and delicious. Every morning, there was more than enough food – so much so that we were never able to finish everything. Mohamed, the owner, even agreed to serve breakfast earlier on the morning of our excursion, adjusting his schedule despite the constraints, which we truly appreciated.
The welcome and service played a major role in the quality of our stay. Layla, the riad staff member, was incredibly helpful with organizing transportation and booking a private French-speaking guide. Mohamed, on his part, was attentive, available, and genuinely concerned about our comfort. Housekeeping was impeccable, and we felt well taken care of throughout our stay.
We had initially hesitated between this riad and Diamant de Fès, which is more luxurious but also more expensive. Looking back, we have absolutely no regrets: the value for money at Riad Tayba is excellent, and the human experience we had there far exceeded our expectations.
Well located within the medina, about a five-minute walk from Bab Boujloud, Riad Tayba makes it easy to explore the main points of interest on foot. It’s a calm, welcoming, and authentic place that we wholeheartedly recommend.
💲 Rate in November 2025: approximately €110 (around $180 CAD) for 3 nights in the Andalouse Suite, including breakfast and accommodation tax.
Where to Eat in Fez
As our stay in Fez was relatively short and our days quite intense, we didn’t get the chance to try a large number of restaurants. After an arrival that was sometimes a bit disorienting, we were craving comforting, familiar food rather than diving straight into major Moroccan culinary explorations.
Here are the places we did try – and a few others we would have liked to experience if we had had more time.
Fez & Friends
We ate at Fez & Friends, located very close to Bab Boujloud Gate. The place immediately appealed to us for its relaxed and friendly atmosphere. The décor is pleasant, the service warm and easygoing, and the overall vibe genuinely chill. The food was very good, portions were satisfying, and prices were quite reasonable. A lovely, no-frills spot – perfect for an enjoyable meal after a day exploring the medina. We were not disappointed.
Culture Box
Culture Box was another great discovery. What first caught our attention was the colorful, original décor as we walked by. Once inside, the atmosphere was just as welcoming. The food was good, the service attentive, and the prices reasonable. Special mention goes to the dessert: the chocolate mousse was absolutely delicious – to the point that I still remember it very clearly! A warm and friendly place where you instantly feel at ease.
Places We Would Have Loved to Try
We had spotted The Ruined Garden, a place that really tempted us, both for its setting and its menu. Unfortunately, when we arrived, the kitchen was closed. After that, we didn’t return – mainly because the surrounding area felt a bit more challenging to navigate a second time. A shame, as the place looked truly promising.
We also would have liked to try Cafe Clock, which we had heard many great things about. Ironically, while looking for it during our first outings, we walked past it several times without realizing it. It was only later that we figured it out… too late to eat there. Definitely an address I’m keeping in mind for a future visit.
Finally, we did not eat at Riad Laaroussa, although we did get a glimpse of the terrace and dining areas, which looked very inviting. It would certainly have been a lovely option, but we chose to prioritize simpler, more affordable restaurants for this part of the trip.
In conclusion
Fez left a deep impression on me – through the beauty of its places, the richness of its heritage… and the human challenges it asked me to move through.
The medina, its architecture, its restored monuments, and its ever-present history truly amazed me. Every visit, every detail, every place carried a rare depth and authenticity. From a cultural and historical perspective, Fez is without a doubt a fascinating, powerful city of great beauty. I experienced moments of genuine wonder there – moments that will stay with me for a long time.
But this beauty also came with human challenges that were sometimes difficult to navigate. The constant pressure, the feeling of being continually approached, the fatigue, and the cultural shock made me swing from one extreme to another in a very short span of time. Fez asked me to adapt, to recenter myself, and to accept that travel doesn’t always need to be comfortable in order to be transformative. With hindsight, I understand that this stage – confronting as it sometimes was – was an essential part of the experience.
In Video
Because some kinds of beauty are better told through images, here is the video from our stay in Fez. A visual immersion into the heart of the medina, its remarkable architecture, and its history-filled places.
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