Morocco | Part Three: 5 Days in Marrakech – Between Wonder and Intensity
Last updated on : January 11, 2026
Part Three: Marrakech
Marrakech is without a doubt one of Morocco’s most iconic destinations. Often referred to as the Ochre City (or Red City) because of the color of its ramparts and many of its buildings, it embodies both Moroccan vibrancy and cultural richness, while also serving as an ideal base for exploring the surrounding region.
A true tourist hub, Marrakech is an excellent home base for venturing out to several of the country’s must-see sites: the Atlas Mountains, the Agafay Desert, the Ourika Valley, and the coastal town of Essaouira. It is also a city that, in itself, offers a wide range of experiences – from peaceful gardens and historic palaces to a lively medina, spectacular excursions, and charming accommodations.
We spent 5 nights in Marrakech during our trip to Morocco in November 2025. After shorter stays in Casablanca and Fez, we felt the need to settle in one place for longer, slow down the pace, and avoid constantly repacking our bags. Marrakech naturally became that anchor point, allowing us to combine urban discoveries with day trips, while maintaining a sense of balance in our itinerary.
What I particularly loved about Marrakech is precisely this diversity of experiences. Beautiful gardens such as Jardin Majorelle and Le Jardin Secret offer true pockets of calm in the heart of the city. Excursions departing from Marrakech – whether a sunrise hot air balloon ride or a visit to the Agafay Desert – allowed us to experience powerful and memorable moments. Not to mention the historic sites, the architecture, and that very distinctive energy that makes Marrakech a vibrant city – sometimes intense, but deeply impactful.
Day 5 : Arrival to Marrakech
We left Fez early in the morning to reach Marrakech by train. It was a long journey of about 7 hours, which we approached calmly. After the busy days spent in Fez, this travel time turned out to be rather restful: landscapes rolling by, quiet moments, and a gentle transition into the next phase of our trip.
Upon arrival at the Marrakech train station, a driver was supposed to be waiting for us. The transfer had been arranged in advance with Yassine, who manages a network of drivers and works in collaboration with the riad we had booked. At first, we didn’t see anyone inside the station, which led to a brief moment of hesitation. I therefore messaged Yassine directly to confirm our arrival. Shortly after, the driver came to meet us outside.
He drove us to Bab Aylan, a meeting point near the medina, which is mainly explored on foot. As it turns out, this gate quickly became very familiar to us, as all of our excursions during our stay in Marrakech departed from there. It’s a strategic location, just a 5- to 10-minute walk from our riad, which proved to be very convenient.
At Bab Aylan, a staff member from the riad was waiting to accompany us to our accommodation. A truly appreciated service, especially after a long journey. Once there, she briefly showed us around and took us to our room. The welcome was simple and efficient, and another staff member would later take over for the evening and for breakfasts during the following days.
When we arrived in Marrakech, it had started to rain, and the weather quickly worsened. We were feeling tired – and hungry. We decided to head out briefly to find something to eat, making our way toward Jemaa el-Fna Square, knowing we would find plenty of dining options there. Along the way, we stopped at a small restaurant called Le Petit Coin, perfect for a quick, no-frills meal. Nothing fancy, but exactly what we needed at that moment.
After this short stop, we returned to the riad. Between the rain, accumulated fatigue, and the long day of travel, all we really wanted was to slow down. We went to bed early, wanting to be well rested for our hot air balloon excursion scheduled early the next morning.
Day 6 : Hot Air Balloon Ride & Medina
🎈 An Early Morning Wake-Up for an Unforgettable Experience
This day started very early. Around 5:30 a.m., we met at Bab Aylan for our pickup, heading out for our hot air balloon excursion. Although breakfast was included at the riad, it was impossible to enjoy it at that hour. We left the still-sleeping medina behind us, in the calm and darkness of the early morning, to experience something truly special.
Our takeoff was scheduled for around 7:00 a.m., but unpredictable weather – specifically rain – slightly delayed the departure. A wait that would, however, be more than worth it. Floating above the landscapes at first light, in an almost unreal silence, was one of the highlights of our stay in Marrakech. A unique experience – gentle, spectacular, and deeply moving.
After the flight, a breakfast was included, perfectly rounding out this timeless morning.
👉 Read the detailed article about our Hot Air Balloon excursion (coming soon)
🕌 Back to Marrakech and Immersion in the Medina
After returning to Marrakech from our hot air balloon flight, we arrived back at our riad late in the morning. Following a short moment of rest, we headed out on foot to explore the medina and begin a series of major visits around the city.
🏛️ El Badi Palace
We began our visit with El Badi Palace (100 dirhams per person). Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the site was undergoing major renovations, which somewhat detracted from the visual experience and the overall presentation of the palace. Despite this, the visit remained interesting, particularly in helping us understand the scale and historical importance of this former royal palace.
While it wasn’t a highlight for us, it is still a worthwhile stop for those who wish to gain a deeper understanding of Marrakech’s history.
🍴 Dinner break near Place des Ferblantiers
As hunger began to set in, we made our way to Place des Ferblantiers, where we chose to have dinner at La Cigogne, a restaurant set on an elevated terrace. It was a pleasant break to recharge our energy, with an open view over the lively surroundings, before continuing our exploration.
🌿 Le Jardin Secret: a peaceful retreat
We then visited Le Jardin Secret (100 dirhams per person), a place we particularly enjoyed. More intimate than Jardin Majorelle, yet just as charming, it offers a calm and soothing atmosphere, despite the number of visitors.
Contrary to some recommendations I had read – suggesting to visit it before Jardin Majorelle to avoid disappointment – I would say, in hindsight, that the two gardens are very different and truly complementary.
Smaller in size, Le Jardin Secret genuinely invites contemplation. You’ll find a wide variety of plants, shaded areas, and an atmosphere that encourages relaxation. It’s the kind of place where you feel like sitting down and simply letting time pass.
🏺 Marrakech Museum
We continued with a visit to the Marrakech Museum (50 dirhams per person), housed in a beautifully restored former palace.
While the collections themselves didn’t leave a strong impression on me, the architecture alone makes the visit worthwhile. The spacious volumes, intricate details, and play of light create an exceptional setting. My husband, on the other hand, took the time to read and observe the exhibitions, while I focused mainly on the visual and architectural aspects of the space.
📚 Ben Youssef Madrasa
The Ben Youssef Madrasa (50 dirhams per person) was our final major visit of the day. Impressive in both scale and elegance, it stands out in particular for its large central basin and access to the former student dormitories.
That said, after visiting several madrasas in Fez, we noticed that the architectural concept remains quite similar. The beauty is undeniable, but the element of surprise was less pronounced. Still, Ben Youssef Madrasa remains a remarkable site and is well worth a visit.
🌇 End of the day at Jemaa el-Fna
In the late afternoon, we returned to Jemaa el-Fna to experience it by daylight and then watch it gradually transform as the hours passed. For dinner, we chose Restaurant L’Adresse, set on a terrace with a direct view over the square.
As we ate, we watched the sun set over Jemaa el-Fna, followed by the gradual illumination of the square and the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque. It was a particularly beautiful and memorable moment, offering a completely different perspective from what we had seen earlier in the day.
After dinner, we made our way back to the riad at a relaxed pace.
⚖️ A rich… but intense day
This day was filled with discoveries and exceptional visits. As is often the case in the medina, however, you have to contend with constant solicitations, persistent vendors, and unsolicited directions the moment you take out your phone. Even though we were starting to better understand how the medina works, it could still feel overwhelming at times.
That said, the places we visited, the beauty of the architecture, and the diversity of atmospheres more than made up for it. This day allowed us to experience a Marrakech that is vibrant and contrasting – sometimes demanding, yet deeply fascinating.
Day 7 : Day Trip to Ouarzazate & Ait Ben Haddou
Originally, we had planned to keep this day more open – either to continue exploring the medina of Marrakech at our own pace or simply to slow things down a bit after several very full days. We wanted to leave ourselves some flexibility, without overloading our itinerary.
However, after the intense day of visits in the medina the day before – and having already seen the main sites we wanted to discover – we realized that the experience was becoming quite demanding. The constant solicitations and the energy required for this type of visit quickly took their toll, much like what we had experienced in Fez.
So, at the very last minute, the evening before, we decided to book an extra excursion to our stay. Among the available options, our choice landed on Ouarzazate and Ait Ben Haddou – an excursion that allowed us to discover a completely different side of Morocco, more cinematic, desert-like, and spectacular.
The day started very early and ended in the late afternoon, but it turned out to be a beautiful and extended escape away from Marrakech, perfectly complementing the rest of our journey.
👉 Read the detailed article about our day trip to Ouarzazate & Ait Ben Haddou
Day 8 : Day Trip to Essaouira
Essaouira was one of the day trips we had chosen and booked in advance – and one we were especially looking forward to. The idea of spending a day on the coast, away from the hustle and bustle of Marrakech, was incredibly appealing to us.
Unlike some excursions that start very early in the morning, this one began a bit later, allowing us to enjoy a relaxed breakfast at the riad before departure – a small luxury we truly appreciated.
This day in Essaouira felt like a real breath of fresh air. The atmosphere is much more laid-back, gentler, almost soothing – especially when compared to the intensity of Marrakech’s medina. The sea, the wind, the light, and the city’s slower rhythm created a perfect contrast with the rest of our stay.
👉 Read the detailed article about our day trip to Essaouira
Day 9 : Jardin Majorelle & Agafay Desert
🌿 Jardin Majorelle, a timeless escape
We began the day with one of Marrakech’s must-see attractions: Jardin Majorelle (170 dirhams per person). We had booked our tickets online in advance for 9:00 a.m., as we weren’t able to secure an earlier time slot (the garden usually opens around 8:30 a.m.). Thankfully, the staff at our riad kindly agreed to serve us breakfast a bit earlier, allowing us to leave feeling relaxed and unhurried.
Rather than taking a taxi, we chose to walk there – a decision we truly appreciated, as it led us through parts of the Marrakech medina we likely wouldn’t have explored otherwise. At that hour, the medina was almost deserted: calm, quiet, still asleep. The atmosphere was completely different from what we had experienced over the previous days. Discovering it in this almost unreal softness was truly delightful.
Jardin Majorelle is located outside the medina, in the Gueliz area, northwest of the historic center. The walk is quite manageable and offers a gradual transition between the medina and Marrakech’s more modern neighborhoods.
Upon arrival, there was already a well-organized queue, with barriers and timed entry slots. We arrived about ten minutes before our scheduled time and waited roughly fifteen minutes, as visitors were admitted in small groups to regulate the flow. The process was smooth and well managed.
Once inside, we immediately understood why this place is so popular. We spent about an hour and a half there, completely absorbed by its beauty. Despite the number of visitors, the garden is spacious enough that it never feels crowded. You may occasionally need to wait a moment to take photos at some iconic spots, but nothing felt restrictive.
The garden is simply stunning – an explosion of colors, contrasts, and textures. The Majorelle blue, lush vegetation, cacti, fountains, shaded pathways… everything invites you to slow down. It’s a calming, inspiring, almost meditative place – a true escape from the city’s bustle, and without a doubt one of our highlights in Marrakech.
🏜️ End of the day in the Agafay Desert
To bring our stay in Marrakech to a close, we had intentionally saved some powerful experiences for the very end. After visiting Jardin Majorelle in the morning, we took the time to enjoy a relaxed lunch on our way back, stopping at a small restaurant we spotted along the way before returning to the riad.
Knowing the evening would be a long one, we used the early afternoon to slow down, rest, and recharge before heading out for our final major excursion.
In the late afternoon, we made our way to the usual departure point for excursions, at Bab Aylan, where we were picked up for our trip to the Agafay Desert. Despite a slight delay, communication with the organizer was exemplary: our guide kept us regularly informed, which greatly contributed to a calm and pleasant experience.
This desert excursion was a true emotional highlight to end our journey. Between the arid landscapes, the camel ride, dinner at a desert camp, and the evening fire show, everything came together to create a powerful, memorable, and deeply immersive moment.
👉 Read the detailed article about our day trip to the Agafay Desert (coming soon)
Day 10 : Back to Montreal
Our return to Montreal marked the end of our journey, but also a more demanding day – reflecting some of the challenges we experienced throughout our stay in Morocco.
After breakfast and packing our bags, we left our riad to head to Marrakech Menara Airport. As had often been the case during the trip, logistics required a certain level of letting go: transportation details were only confirmed at the last minute, forcing us – once again – to trust the process. In the end, everything fell into place, and we were able to make our way to the airport.
The journey home involved several stages, with a domestic flight to Casablanca before crossing the Atlantic to Montreal. Connections, security checks, and waiting times added an extra layer of fatigue, already present after several full and intense days. The long transatlantic flight was far from restful, making the arrival even more challenging – especially since, on my end, I was returning to work that very evening.
This more difficult return likely shaped our first impressions once we were back home. The accumulated fatigue, the human challenges encountered in certain medinas, and sometimes unclear logistics took up a lot of space in the moment. With hindsight, however, these elements are also an integral part of the journey: they taught us how to navigate the unexpected, step outside our comfort zone, and embrace the experience as a whole – with both its highs and its lows.
If I Had More Time
With hindsight – and knowing what I know now – I would without a doubt have given more space to Essaouira in our itinerary. Rather than discovering it on a day trip from Marrakech, I would have loved to make it a true stop in our journey, with at least two to three nights there.
Essaouira was one of my biggest highlights of the trip. Its atmosphere is gentle, soothing, almost timeless. That day on the coast felt like a real breath of fresh air, and I would have loved to extend that feeling – to sink deeper into its rhythm, its light, and its unique energy.
We also chose to skip certain excursions, not due to a lack of interest, but mainly because of weather and logistical considerations. At that time of year, temperatures in the mountains were quite cool – sometimes around 5°C – and we simply weren’t equipped for high-altitude excursions involving hiking, such as the Imlil Valley or the Ourika Valley. In a warmer season, these regions would clearly have been among our priorities.
Our decision to head toward Ouarzazate was therefore largely influenced by these conditions. While several excursion options offered a similar diversity of landscapes, temperature played a key role in shaping our choice at that moment.
Finally, had we had more time, I would also have considered the experience of the Merzouga Desert, which generally requires three days and two nights. We chose not to include it in order to maintain a greater diversity of experiences within a limited timeframe. With hindsight – and after speaking with other travelers who have experienced it – I do believe Merzouga fully deserves the time it requires. It’s certainly an idea to keep in mind for a future trip.
How to Get Around Marrakech
As in many major cities in Morocco, travelers have several options for getting around Marrakech, and in many ways, the experience is quite similar to what we encountered in Fez.
🚶♀️ On foot – the essential option in the medina
The Marrakech medina is largely pedestrian, and walking remains the most common way to explore its narrow streets, souks, and main points of interest.
This is how we got around most of the time during our visits within the medina. That said, you should expect to walk a lot… and occasionally get a little lost – which is also part of the experience.
🚖 Taxis and private drivers
In Marrakech, as elsewhere in Morocco, there are two types of taxis:
- Small taxis, mainly used for getting around within the city
- Grand taxis, generally used for longer or intercity journeys
We mostly opted for private drivers, especially for transfers between the train station and the riad, as well as between the riad and the airport. It’s a convenient option, particularly when traveling with luggage, and it can often be arranged directly through your accommodation.
🚗 Car rental
Renting a car can be an interesting option if you plan to explore the surroundings of Marrakech extensively or travel through several regions of Morocco.
However, as in Fez, it’s important to keep in mind that the medina is not accessible by car – you’ll need to park outside and continue on foot. Driving can also feel disorienting for those not accustomed to local traffic conditions.
🚌 Organized excursions – simple and hassle-free
For longer outings, such as trips to Essaouira, Ouarzazate, hot air balloon experiences, or the Agafay Desert, we chose organized excursions.
Transportation is usually provided by minibus, with pick-up at a designated meeting point or near the medina. It’s a very convenient solution, as transport is included in the price and allows you to explore the surrounding areas without worrying about driving or logistics.
Where to Stay in Marrakech
During our stay in Marrakech, we stayed at Riad Tchina.
Our choice was initially driven by very practical reasons: the price was truly attractive for what was offered, breakfast was included, the riad was well located within the medina, and – most importantly – credit card payment was accepted, which weighed heavily in our decision at the time of booking.
Originally, however, we had hesitated with Riad Souad Marrakech, a riad with a much more traditional style. The fact that payment was required in cash only made us hesitate, as we weren’t keen on carrying large amounts of cash. In hindsight – and knowing now that cash payments are common throughout Morocco anyway – we probably would have made a different choice.
What we appreciated about Riad Tchina
The riad is clean, with a modern bathroom, and fairly well located for exploring the medina. We even received a room upgrade, which was appreciated. Breakfasts, when served, were decent and filling – nothing memorable, but convenient before heading out for excursions or a day of sightseeing.
What convinced us less
What we missed most was character and human warmth.
After the exceptional experience we had in Fez, where the owner and staff’s welcome, attentiveness, and kindness truly made a difference, we found the atmosphere at Riad Tchina to be more distant and impersonal.
The modern, contemporary style of the riad – while appealing to some travelers – left us wanting more. With hindsight, we would have preferred a more traditional riad in Marrakech, with stronger character and a warmer atmosphere – something that likely would have softened our experience in an already very intense city.
Would I recommend Riad Tchina?
👉 Yes… and no.
It’s not a bad option, especially if you’re looking for:
- good value for money
- a simple, functional stay
- the convenience of paying by credit card
That said, if we were to do it again, we would probably choose a more authentic and welcoming riad, even if it meant paying in cash. In a city like Marrakech, where the energy can be very strong, emotional comfort and a warm welcome play an important role in the overall experience.
Where to Eat in Marrakech
Marrakech offers a wide range of dining options, especially around the medina and Jemaa el-Fna. On our end, we mostly opted for simple, accessible, and reassuring places – depending on our energy level, the weather, and the pace of our visits.
Le Petit Coin
On our first evening in Marrakech, it was raining, it was dark, and we were exhausted after the long train journey. As we were heading toward Jemaa el-Fna, we came across this covered restaurant, with tables sheltered under large umbrellas – exactly what we needed at that moment.
The food was decent and unpretentious, but more than enough to satisfy our hunger. What stood out most was the very particular way the place operates: each dish or drink seemed to come from a different nearby stall, and the servers collected our order from several surrounding vendors. A slightly disorienting experience at first, but ultimately quite typical – and entertaining to observe. Cash payment only, which became our first real lesson in how Marrakech works.
La Cigogne
While exploring the medina, we stopped for lunch at this restaurant located near Place des Ferblantiers, featuring a rooftop terrace. We were mainly drawn to the open view over the square and the opportunity to take a quiet break.
Service was quick, the food was good, and the overall experience matched exactly what we were looking for at that moment: a simple, no-fuss meal in a pleasant setting. A solid option for lunch between visits.
L’Adresse
This was probably the restaurant that left the strongest impression on us in Marrakech. Located right on Jemaa el-Fna, L’Adresse offers a stunning view – especially at sunset. Watching the square slowly come to life, the lights turn on, and the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque light up during dinner made the moment truly special.
The food was excellent, the service attentive, and although prices were a bit higher than at other places we tried, the experience was absolutely worth it. A special mention for their kindness: after we asked, they kindly prepared pastries for us to take away the next morning, ahead of a very early excursion. A simple gesture, but one that made all the difference. An address I recommend without hesitation.
Terrasse du Jardin
After visiting Jardin Majorelle, we stopped at this beautifully designed restaurant, blending modern touches with Moroccan character. Although it was still close to brunch time, the kitchen kindly agreed to serve us a lunch-style meal, which we really appreciated.
The space is bright and inviting, encouraging you to slow down and enjoy the moment. Service was excellent, the food very good, and the atmosphere genuinely pleasant. A lovely discovery – perfect for a more relaxed break after a full morning.
✨ In summary
Without being food connoisseurs, we found Marrakech to offer a good variety of dining options, suited to different moments of the trip: quick meals, terraces with views, or slightly more refined experiences. As is often the case in Morocco, cash payment is best planned for, and it’s wise to stay flexible depending on the time of day and your energy level.
In conclusion
Marrakech left me with a deeply mixed feeling. On one hand, the city is strikingly beautiful: remarkable architecture, soothing gardens that feel like true refuges amid the hustle and bustle, and extraordinary experiences that will stay with me – the hot air balloon at sunrise, the Agafay Desert, the gardens, and the excursions beyond the city. In that sense, Marrakech more than lived up to its promises.
On the other hand, the human intensity of the medina – very present and sometimes overwhelming – colored our emotional experience. Without an anchoring place as warm and enveloping as the one we had in Fez, that intensity sometimes felt more difficult to hold. Thankfully, the excursions and gardens created much-needed pauses – essential moments of breathing space that helped balance our stay.
In the end, Marrakech perfectly reflects what I felt throughout this journey in Morocco: I love it and I don’t love it at the same time. A beautiful, rich, and memorable trip – but also one that was emotionally demanding. This experience taught me the importance of not only researching the places to visit, but also understanding the human and cultural dimension of a destination, so as to travel with awareness and make choices that are truly aligned with what we are seeking through travel.
In Video
To complete this story, here is a visual immersion into the heart of Marrakech. Between soothing gardens, fascinating architecture, and everyday scenes from the medina, this video offers a sensitive and inspiring glimpse into our time in the city.
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