Last updated on : August 19, 2026
Fourth Stop on Our Vietnam Trip: Ninh Binh (Tam Coc)
After exploring central Vietnam, the fourth stop on our trip took us to the beautiful Ninh Binh region.
Often referred to as “Ha Long Bay on land,” this region is known for its impressive karst landscapes, rivers winding between the mountains, and its much calmer, more nature-focused atmosphere. It’s also one of the most highly recommended places to visit in Vietnam, and honestly, there was no way we could leave it out of our itinerary.
Since we had heard so much about the region before our trip, we also wanted to slow down a little and really take the time to enjoy it. So this is where we chose to spend the most time during our stay in Vietnam, with a total of four nights.
When deciding where to stay in the region, we eventually chose Tam Coc. During our research, whether on travel blogs or in different Facebook groups, Tam Coc kept coming up as one of the best places to stay for exploring the area. Its more peaceful atmosphere, beautiful scenery, and proximity to several major attractions made it an ideal base.
And honestly, we had absolutely no regrets about that choice.
Tam Coc turned out to be the perfect place to explore the region at our own pace, both by bike and on excursions, while enjoying a much more relaxed and immersive atmosphere.
🎥 On Video: In the Heart of Ha Long Bay on Land
Before getting into the details of our itinerary, I invite you to join us through video as we explore the Ninh Binh region during our four-day stay.
Between boat rides, rice fields, karst mountains, temples, and our bike rides around Tam Coc, this video shows not only the landscapes that amazed us, but also what our experience was really like – with our favorite moments, the little things that bothered us, and our tips for making the most of this beautiful region.
⚠️ The prices mentioned in this article reflect our visit in March 2026. They are listed in Canadian dollars (CAD), unless otherwise stated, and may vary over time.
In addition, some links in this article are affiliate links. This comes at no extra cost to you, but if you choose to book or purchase through them, you help support Âme & Aventure. Thank you so much for your support! 🌎🩵
Day 9: Arrival in Tam Coc
After our stay in Hue, we made our way to the Ninh Binh region by sleeper bus.
The journey, however, was particularly long and exhausting. After more than ten hours on the road, we finally arrived in Tam Coc completely exhausted.
Even though the area seemed really pleasant in the evening, with lively restaurants and a fairly relaxed atmosphere, we simply didn’t have enough energy left to truly enjoy it.
We still tried to grab something to eat after arriving, but the fatigue from the journey quickly caught up with us, and we just didn’t have the patience for the service, which was taking too long. So we eventually headed back to our hotel for a good shower and a little snack.
Day 10: Hoa Lu, Bai Dinh, Trang An and Mua Cave
Since breakfast had to be ordered the night before via WhatsApp, we had already planned everything before going to bed. Breakfast was good, although it didn’t quite compare to the ones we had enjoyed in Hue.
Around 8 a.m., we left for a group tour booked through GetYourGuide, which included several of the region’s major attractions.
Right from the start, the group dynamic was interesting. Since we were the first ones to be picked up, we watched as the other participants joined the tour, including a woman traveling alone with a baby who was around a year and a half old. I have to admit that at first, I was a little judgmental and wondered how a group tour would go with such a young child… but in the end, she completely proved me wrong. The little one was surprisingly calm for almost the entire day.
The more difficult participants actually turned out to be an extremely demanding couple who constantly slowed down the group, especially because they didn’t have any cash despite the instructions given beforehand. Several stops therefore took longer than expected, between card payments and the many photo breaks they made the rest of us wait through.
Our first stop was Hoa Lu, the ancient capital.
Unfortunately, this was probably the part of the day we enjoyed the least. We arrived at exactly the same time as a huge group of students, and the place was completely packed. Since the site is relatively small, it was difficult to really enjoy it under those conditions. And, as often happened to us in Vietnam, we had also become a bit of a tourist attraction for the students themselves.
The whole experience felt rather chaotic and gave us the impression of a very rushed visit.
Fortunately, the next part of our day at Bai Dinh Pagoda was much more enjoyable.
The site is huge and impressive, but we quickly realized that it would be impossible to see everything within the time allowed on our tour. Our guide kept us moving at a fairly quick pace, which often left me feeling like I never had enough time to truly take in the place or capture the photos and videos I really wanted.
After the visit, we stopped for lunch at a buffet-style restaurant serving local food.
I have to admit that when I saw it was a buffet, I wasn’t particularly convinced at first… but in the end, it was a really nice surprise. I practically devoured a big plate of rice, noodles, and honey chicken that almost reminded me of some of my favorite dishes from Chinese restaurants back home in Quebec.
In the afternoon, we continued with the activity I was probably looking forward to the most: the boat ride at Trang An.
My husband and I were paired with the woman and her baby for the boat ride, but once again, everything went very well. The little one even slept for a good part of the ride, and we had some great conversations with her.
The scenery was absolutely beautiful. The karst mountains, rivers, and caves really create a unique atmosphere. However, I also have to be honest: the two hours on Route #2 felt a little long to me. Personally, a slightly shorter boat ride probably would have been enough.
Also, a huge number of boats leave at almost the same time, which quickly creates traffic jams on the water. I guess this place is a victim of its own popularity.
We then ended the day at Mua Cave, with the famous climb of around 500 steps leading to the higher of the two peaks.
The view from the top is spectacular and truly worth the effort, but once again, the limited time allowed by the tour kept us from fully enjoying it. We only had one hour to climb up, admire the scenery, take a few photos, and make our way back down to the meeting point.
Despite some frustrations with the pace of the group tour, the day still allowed us to discover some beautiful landscapes and come away with wonderful memories.
In the evening, we ended the day at a restaurant-bar in Tam Coc called Rustic Garden.
The atmosphere was really nice, with live music and a singer playing guitar who reminded us a little of the chansonniers we have back home in Quebec.
It was also during this evening that I found myself being more social than usual, despite my English still being far from perfect. And surprisingly, even though many people talk about overtourism in the Ninh Binh region, it bothered me much less than it did in Hoi An. Maybe the almost magical scenery of the area somehow made everything feel softer and easier to enjoy.
Day 11: E-Bike Ride Around Tam Coc
The next morning, we had booked an e-bike tour around Tam Coc, once again through GetYourGuide.
Unfortunately, the day started with a bit of confusion.
According to the information in the activity description, pickup from our hotel was scheduled for 8 a.m. unless we were told otherwise. Since we hadn’t received any message, we went down for breakfast as soon as it opened at 7:30 a.m. so we would be ready on time.
But while we were eating, at around 7:45 a.m., the tour operator suddenly messaged me asking us to be at their office by 8 a.m.… even though it was about a 15-minute walk away.
So I pointed out that transportation from our hotel was supposed to be included according to the information we had received. He then replied that he would send a driver.
A few minutes later, a man did show up… alone on a scooter, with no extra helmet, clearly intending to take both my husband and me with him.
Considering my husband weighs around 240 pounds, the situation was pretty absurd. Let’s just say we politely declined the offer and decided to walk to the office instead.
So the day was off to a bit of a chaotic start.
Fortunately, once we arrived, we learned that it would be just the two of us with the guide for the tour, which was already much more enjoyable.
After a few explanations on how the e-bikes worked, we finally set off to explore the countryside around Tam Coc.
And honestly, the scenery was just as beautiful as the day before.
The roads took us through rice fields, small villages, and the impressive karst mountains that are so typical of the region. Luckily, I had my camera around my neck because our guide rarely stopped long enough for us to take photos or videos.
Our first stop was Thai Vi Temple.
The site is relatively small, but really beautiful and peaceful. We even had a pretty special moment when a monk played a piece for us on a traditional Vietnamese monochord instrument. The atmosphere was truly unique.
We then continued to Bich Dong Pagoda.
Once again, the guide’s explanations were fairly quick and sometimes difficult to understand because of the language barrier, but fortunately, he then gave us the freedom to explore the site at our own pace.
This pagoda is built into the mountainside, so you do have to climb some steps, but the effort is relatively minor compared to Mua Cave. There is also a cave behind the pagoda that allows you to climb higher and enjoy a beautiful view over the surrounding area.
We took our time exploring the different sections of the pagoda and taking photos and videos, which was probably one of the most enjoyable moments of the tour.
We then visited Dundj Valley, a private site owned by a local family.
To get there, we took a small boat through a very dark, undeveloped cave before reaching the valley. The place was beautiful, but once again, we felt like we constantly had to keep up with the pace being set rather than really having time to fully enjoy the surroundings.
Several times throughout the day, we felt a little like we were being a bother whenever we took too long to film, take photos, or simply enjoy the scenery.
Finally, we made our way back toward Tam Coc, passing through a few small local villages along the way.
Let’s just say it was a good thing the scenery was beautiful and we were on vacation, because the organization of the tour sometimes left us with mixed feelings. Or maybe we simply weren’t lucky enough to get the best guide?
We don’t regret the tour, as it was still very enjoyable overall, but it made us realize that we would probably prefer exploring the area on our own rather than as part of an organized tour.
So we decided that the next day, we would probably use the free bicycles offered by our hotel and explore the surroundings at our own pace.
En après-midi, nous avons décidé de ralentir un peu et de profiter d’un moment de détente bien mérité.
Nous sommes allés nous faire masser au Tâm Spa Tam Coc, où nous avons choisi un massage en duo de 90 minutes dans un très bel environnement. Je recommande cet endroit si vous cherchez à relaxer. Nous avions réservé le matin pour un rdv en fin d’après-midi.
Après un souper tranquille, nous sommes retournés à notre chambre pour une soirée relaxe. Il en faut aussi des moments comme celui-ci en voyage.
Day 12: A Relaxing Final Day in Tam Coc
For our last full day in Tam Coc, we decided not to set an alarm, hoping we might actually sleep in.
But in the end, we still woke up pretty early. We’re definitely not night owls when we travel. We usually go to bed early almost every night so we have enough energy to make the most of our days. Which also means we usually wake up early.
As we had planned the day before, we decided to use the free bicycles provided by our accommodation to explore the area at our own pace.
For about two hours, we rode through different areas we hadn’t explored yet. Despite a little rain at the beginning and the cloudy morning, the ride was really enjoyable and much less tiring than we had imagined… although our backsides definitely found the experience a little more challenging. Let’s just say that after several kilometers on a bike, you can definitely feel it.
Since we hadn’t ordered breakfast at the hotel the night before—the food there wasn’t really our favorite—we decided to have an early lunch toward the end of the morning.
We stopped at Happy Restaurant, located near the river where the Tam Coc boats depart and along a beautiful walkway. The setting was really pretty, and the atmosphere was very pleasant.
And then… the sun finally came out.
Since arriving in the region, we had mostly seen gray skies, lots of clouds, and even a few periods of light rain. So this was the first time we could really see the landscapes of Tam Coc in the sunshine.
We then decided to walk back along the road leading toward Thai Vi Temple.
The day before, during our e-bike tour, we had found this area absolutely beautiful, but the pace set by our guide hadn’t allowed us to stop as often as we would have liked to take photos and videos.
This time, we could finally enjoy the scenery at our own pace.
And honestly, with the sun lighting up the karst mountains and rice fields, the area was even more beautiful.
After our walk, we returned to our room before trying a service that would eventually become a must for us on future trips: a self-service laundromat right across from our hotel.
It was the first time we had used a self-service laundry while traveling, and honestly, we loved it. In less than an hour, everything was washed and dried. It was simple, convenient, and incredibly useful for a long trip like ours.
Later in the day, we also went to withdraw some cash from an ATM, which turned out to be a little more complicated than expected. We had to try several ATMs before finding one that still had cash available. It’s one of those things that can happen, especially in more touristy areas.
We then spent a quiet final evening in Tam Coc, having one last dinner, picking up a few snacks at the market for the next few days, and finally packing our bags since the following morning, we would already be leaving the region for our next stop: Pu Luong.
Day 13: Departure for Pu Luong
The next morning, it was already time to leave Tam Coc and continue our adventure toward Pu Luong.
So we took a small bus for the journey.
The vehicle was clearly not brand new, but fortunately, since there were only six passengers in total, my husband and I had a three-seat bench to ourselves, which made the ride fairly comfortable.
Unfortunately, the journey became a little more difficult for me because of one very specific detail: the passenger sitting behind us had a strong body odor.
Since I have a particularly strong sense of smell and am very sensitive to odors, I quickly had to pull one of my clean shirts out of my bag and keep it close to my nose for a good part of the journey.
Let’s just say that’s sometimes one of the little downsides of having a very sensitive sense of smell.
The journey took around three hours, with a short bathroom break along the way.
Even though the scenery along the road was beautiful at times, the bus windows weren’t ideal for really enjoying the views or filming properly.
So I took the opportunity to catch up on some episodes of TV shows I had downloaded before the trip.
If I Had More Time
Rather than adding more activities, if I had had more time, I think I simply would have spent it riding along the small roads around Tam Coc by bike, without any specific itinerary. Some of my favorite memories from this region aren’t necessarily the most famous sites, but rather the landscapes we passed between visits—the rice fields, the karst mountains, and that feeling of calm you find as soon as you move away from the busiest areas.
That said, if we had had one or two extra days in the region, a few activities definitely would have found their way into our itinerary.
The first would undoubtedly have been a day at Cuc Phuong National Park. As Vietnam’s oldest national park, it’s known for its tropical forest, centuries-old trees, hiking trails, and wildlife conservation centers. Since we particularly enjoy spending time in nature, I’m convinced we would have really enjoyed this excursion.
We had also spotted an activity near Buffalo Cave, where you can discover the daily life of Vietnamese farmers by taking part in different traditional activities, such as planting rice, fishing, or exploring the countryside. We actually passed quite close to it during our stay, but ultimately chose to enjoy a more relaxing day on our bikes instead. With more time in the area, this immersion into rural life would have been a wonderful way to complete our experience of the region.
How to Get Around Ninh Binh (Tam Coc)
As everywhere in Vietnam, there are several ways to get around. Here are the main options in the region:
🚶 Walking
If you’re staying in Tam Coc, it’s very easy to get around on foot. Most accommodations, restaurants, cafés, and small shops are concentrated around the center of the village. You can easily go out for a meal, do a little shopping, or simply walk along the river without needing any transportation.
Walking is also a great way to simply enjoy the atmosphere of Tam Coc.
🚲 By Bike (Our Favorite Way to Get Around)
If there’s one place in Vietnam where I particularly recommend getting around by bike, it’s Tam Coc.
Many accommodations provide free bicycles for their guests, as ours did. We took advantage of them to explore the small country roads, ride through the rice fields, and admire the karst landscapes at our own pace.
Cycling also makes it easy to reach several attractions located just a few kilometers from the center, while giving you a sense of freedom that organized tours don’t always allow. In fact, it was one of our favorite ways to discover the region.
⚠️ A little tip: if your hotel offers free bicycles, don’t wait too late in the morning to grab one. The best ones tend to go quickly.
🚕 Grab, Taxi, or Private Driver
For longer distances, you can also use Grab, take a taxi, or hire a private driver. We saw several travelers using these options to reach attractions located farther from Tam Coc or for transfers between different cities.
🚐 Organized Tours
If you want to visit several sites in a single day, organized minibus tours are a very popular option. That’s actually what we chose to visit Hoa Lu, Bai Dinh, Trang An, and Mua Cave all in one day.
It’s a convenient option if you’re short on time, although we sometimes found the pace a little too fast.
🛵 Renting a scooter
As in many parts of Vietnam, it’s possible to rent a scooter to explore the surrounding area.
However, as we often mention in our articles, this option normally requires an international driving permit that complies with Vietnamese regulations, as well as insurance that covers riding a scooter. Since we didn’t meet these requirements, we chose not to rent one.
Where to Stay in Ninh Binh (Tam Coc)
For our four-night stay in the Ninh Binh region, we went back and forth for quite a while before making our final choice.
At first, we had booked the Tam Coc Retreat Ninh Binh. The property looked beautiful and seemed to offer a more upscale experience, but as we continued planning our trip, we realized that it was relatively far from the center of Tam Coc.
Since we wanted to be able to easily walk to restaurants and cafés without depending on our accommodation, we eventually decided to reconsider our choice.
We also considered the Tam Coc Amanda Villas, which seemed to offer excellent value for money with its small villas, but it felt like something was missing, so we ultimately kept looking.
We then settled on the Tam Coc Holiday Hotel & Spa. Unfortunately for us, a few weeks before our departure, the hotel informed us that the renovations were taking longer than expected and that they would no longer be able to accommodate us.
Fortunately, we had a Plan B.
So we ended up staying at the Tam Coc Sana Villa & Homestays.
Our Impressions
When we arrived, after a very long sleeper bus ride from Hue, we were particularly tired. We had asked if it would be possible to be picked up at the bus stop, but since the accommodation was about a 15-minute walk away, the owners simply told us to walk there.
At the time, with our backpacks, the fatigue, and our hunger, the walk felt a little long, which was somewhat disappointing compared to what we had read in the reviews about the exceptional service.
However, once we arrived, we received a very warm welcome. The owner was extremely friendly throughout our stay, and we quickly understood why so many travelers mentioned the kindness of the hosts in their reviews.
As for the room, our impression was a little more mixed.
It was clean and comfortable, and the bathroom was very nice. The bed was also comfortable, and breakfast and complimentary bottles of water were provided every day.
However, this was probably the accommodation that impressed us the least during our entire trip to Vietnam.
After staying in several places with large balconies, beautiful views, and plenty of natural light, we found this room much simpler. It didn’t have a balcony or any particular view, the windows were relatively small, and the room lacked a little natural light.
That didn’t stop us from having four good nights there, but the contrast with our previous accommodations was still quite noticeable.
Breakfast was included, which is always appreciated. However, it had to be ordered every evening before 6:30 p.m. via WhatsApp.
We had breakfast there on our first two mornings, but weren’t particularly impressed. After the excellent breakfasts we had enjoyed in Hue, it was hard not to compare. We even chose to have breakfast somewhere else on our third morning.
On our last day, since we were leaving very early, the property prepared a breakfast to go for us, which was a thoughtful gesture that we appreciated, even though the breakfast itself wasn’t quite to our taste.
Would I Recommend It?
Yes.
As long as you know exactly what to expect.
Tam Coc Sana Villa & Homestays isn’t a luxurious accommodation or the kind of place you choose mainly to enjoy the facilities.
However, it offers an excellent location within walking distance of central Tam Coc, welcoming owners, clean and comfortable rooms, breakfast included, and free bicycles to explore the surrounding scenery.
For us, its biggest advantage was clearly the location. Being able to easily walk to restaurants, grab a bike, or simply head out for a walk made our stay much more enjoyable.
Looking back, I think we made the right choice by staying close to the center of Tam Coc rather than at a more isolated resort. Even though we gave up a little luxury, we gained a lot of freedom to explore the area on foot or by bike. For the way we like to travel, it ultimately turned out to be the best compromise.
💲 Rate in March 2026: approximately 3,564,216 VND (around C$187) for 4 nights in a Deluxe Double Room with Bathtub, breakfast included.
Where to Eat in Ninh Binh (Tam Coc)
Since we spent four nights in Tam Coc, we had the opportunity to try several restaurants. Overall, we ate very well, and the prices were, as in much of Vietnam, very affordable.
Here are the places that stood out to us the most.
🍜 Rustic Garden – Our Favorite
If there were only one place to remember from our stay, it would definitely be Rustic Garden.
We spent a wonderful evening there in a really warm and welcoming atmosphere. A musician was playing acoustic guitar live, a little like the chansonniers we have back home in Quebec, which gave the place a very friendly and relaxed feel.
We also noticed that several travelers came simply to have a drink or play board games, making it a real gathering place.
The food was very good, the service was friendly, and the place had an atmosphere we really enjoyed.
🍚 Happy Restaurant
Our second favorite.
Located right along the river where the Tam Coc boats depart, this restaurant offers a beautiful view while you eat.
We enjoyed an excellent Vietnamese meal at a very reasonable price while watching the small boats come and go. It’s a place we recommend both for the quality of the food and its location.
🍕 Little Italy Pizza
After several days of Vietnamese food, we felt like having something a little different.
So we chose this Italian restaurant, where the pizzas were cooked in a real pizza oven. Both the pasta and pizzas were very good, and it was a nice alternative when we wanted a little variety during our trip.
🍲 Family Restaurant
Family Restaurant often comes up in travelers’ recommendations, so we wanted to give it a try.
The food was good, and we had a pleasant experience. That said, after reading so many excellent reviews, our expectations may have been a little high. We weren’t disappointed, but it simply wasn’t the restaurant that stood out the most during our stay.
🍹 Chu’s House
We went there for a drink and a meal.
The place is nice, and the food was good. However, it was probably the only restaurant during our trip where communication was a little more difficult. Despite speaking in English, we had some trouble making ourselves understood when ordering. Fortunately, the numbered menu eventually made things much easier.
In Conclusion
Before our trip, I had very high expectations for the Ninh Binh region. The landscapes of “Ha Long Bay on land” kept coming up as some of the most beautiful in Vietnam, but I had also heard several travelers say they were disappointed by how touristy some areas had become. So I was a little worried that the destination wouldn’t live up to all the expectations we had built around it.
In the end, it was quite the opposite.
Yes, the region is touristy. Yes, some very popular sites, such as Trang An and Mua Cave, attract huge numbers of visitors. But surprisingly, that almost never stopped us from enjoying the experience. As soon as we left the main attractions behind and followed a small road by bike or walked between the rice fields and karst mountains, all that noise seemed to disappear. The scenery was so spectacular that it quickly became the only thing that mattered.
That’s probably why this region became one of our biggest highlights in Vietnam. If I had to rank the different stops on our Vietnam adventure, Ninh Binh would easily make our top two.
We found exactly what we had come for: a place where we could slow down, take our time, and simply enjoy being there. Looking back, I would hardly change anything about our itinerary. If I went back, I might choose a slightly more upscale place to stay, but I would definitely spend several days in Tam Coc again.
Because ultimately, some destinations are about more than just their tourist attractions. They’re meant to be experienced.
And for us, Tam Coc and the Ninh Binh region were exactly that.
