Last updated on : August 19, 2026
Fifth Stop on Our Vietnam Trip: Pu Luong
After several busier stops during our trip through Vietnam, we felt like slowing things down a little.
Originally, we had planned to spend five days in Hanoi, but we eventually decided to shorten our time in the capital and add two nights in the Pu Luong region instead… and honestly, it turned out to be one of the best decisions of our entire trip.
Located in a mountainous, rural region of northern Vietnam, Pu Luong offers a completely different pace. There’s no chaotic traffic, no big city, and no constant crowds. You come here mainly for the landscapes, rice fields, peaceful atmosphere, and the feeling of discovering a quieter, more authentic side of Vietnam.
It was exactly what we were looking for to balance our itinerary: a softer, more nature-focused, slower-paced break.
What’s funny is that Pu Luong wasn’t even part of our original itinerary. At first, we had planned to spend a few days in Mai Chau. Then, when we decided to take advantage of our long layover and spend three days in Tokyo during cherry blossom season, we ultimately removed that stop from the trip.
A few weeks before our departure, while watching some videos about northern Vietnam, I came across Pu Luong. I immediately fell in love with what I saw. So we completely reworked the end of our itinerary: less time in Hanoi, a one-day cruise in Lan Ha Bay instead of two days, and two nights added in Pu Luong.
Looking back, it was probably one of the best decisions we made for this trip.
🎥 On Video: Pu Luong, As If You Were There
Before you continue reading, I invite you to discover Pu Luong through our video. I hope it manages to capture some of the serenity, spectacular landscapes, and authentic atmosphere that we loved so much.
I intentionally kept many of the natural sounds in the video so you can experience Pu Luong almost as if you were there.
⚠️ The prices mentioned in this article reflect our visit in March 2026. They are listed in Canadian dollars (CAD), unless otherwise stated, and may vary over time.
In addition, some links in this article are affiliate links. This comes at no extra cost to you, but if you choose to book or purchase through them, you help support Âme & Aventure. Thank you so much for your support! 🌎🩵
Day 13: Arrival in Pu Luong
In the morning, we left Tam Coc (Ninh Binh) by small bus to make our way to Pu Luong. Our hotel there had actually arranged the transfer for us.
When we arrived, the resort wasn’t directly accessible by car, so we still had a short distance to walk. However, someone came to collect our luggage by scooter, which made things much easier. We only had about a 2–3 minute walk… and quickly realized there were quite a few hills in the area.
When we reached the hotel, we received a very warm welcome. However, since we had arrived before check-in time, we had to wait a little before getting access to our room.
We had hoped there would be a spa on-site – or at least massages available – so we could turn this part of the trip into a true moment of relaxation and tranquility. Unfortunately, after speaking with reception, we realized there wasn’t one. It wasn’t a big deal, though. We figured we could always treat ourselves to a massage later in Hanoi.
We were then shown to our villa-style room, complete with a small private pool and views over the rice fields. It was absolutely beautiful. There’s no denying it: Pu Luong is a stunning place.
That afternoon, we set out on foot to explore the surrounding area. And honestly… we were completely blown away within the first few minutes.
The scenery was breathtaking. Terraced rice fields stretched as far as we could see, surrounded by lush green mountains that seemed to continue all the way to the horizon. Everywhere we looked, there was another postcard-worthy view. We constantly felt tiny compared to the vastness of the landscape.
But beyond the beauty of the scenery, what struck us most was the atmosphere. Pu Luong has a sense of tranquility that’s difficult to describe. There’s almost no traffic, very few tourists, and life seems to move at a completely different pace.
During our walk, we mostly came across local residents simply going about their daily lives. That authenticity made the experience even more special. We didn’t feel like we were visiting a place designed for tourism, but rather discovering a corner of Vietnam that had managed to preserve its identity and way of life.
The silence also added to that feeling of serenity. All we could hear was the wind moving through the rice fields, birds singing, a few roosters in the distance, and the sound of our footsteps along the small paths. When watching our video footage again, you can even clearly hear our shoes brushing against the ground because the surroundings were so quiet. It’s a small detail, but it perfectly captures the atmosphere of Pu Luong.
Despite the heat, that first walk quickly became one of our favorite memories of the trip. We already knew we were going to love this place.
Day 14: Immersion in a More Authentic Side of Pu Luong
The next morning, our guide met us directly at the hotel before walking with us to the car, where our driver was waiting.
Originally from the region, he belongs to the Black Thai ethnic group. During the drive, he told us about the different ethnic groups living in the mountains of Pu Luong, their traditions, and their way of life. It was particularly interesting, especially since it echoed our visit to the Precious Heritage Art Gallery Museum in Hoi An. We could finally put faces and stories to some of the communities we had learned about a few days earlier.
Our first stop took us to an organic garden where we found Pu Luong’s famous wooden water wheels.
I had already seen them in photos before our trip, but experiencing them in person was completely different.
Built entirely from wood, they turn slowly with the current of the river. You can hear the wood gently creaking as the paddles fill with water before pouring it into irrigation channels that feed the rice fields. The system is amazingly simple… yet incredibly ingenious.
Our guide explained that some of the wheels are used to irrigate the fields of a single family, while the larger ones are shared by several families in the village. Behind their apparent simplicity lies an entire system of cooperation and community organization.
We spent quite a while simply watching them. There was something hypnotic about seeing these wheels turn endlessly, just as they have for generations.
We then continued our walk through the rice fields while our guide explained local agriculture, the different crops, and how the farm operates. Once again, the scenery was beautiful. In Pu Luong, every turn reveals another view that makes you want to stop for a few moments just to take it all in.
We then got back in the car and headed toward the Pu Luong Ancient Stilt House, a traditional Black Thai house that is more than 120 years old.
This visit gave us a real glimpse into the daily life of this community. We learned about traditional rice-cleaning techniques, fed the animals, tried a few traditional games, and explored the inside of this impressive stilt house. Our hosts also offered us drinks and some fruit grown from their own harvest.
Moments like these remind us that travel isn’t just about admiring beautiful landscapes. It’s also about taking the time to meet the people who live there and better understand their way of life.
After the visit, we set off on foot toward the bamboo rafts.
The walk through the countryside was almost as enjoyable as the activity itself. Rice fields, mountains, and small villages followed one another in an almost unreal sense of calm. Most of the people we passed were locals who greeted us with a smile. That authenticity is without a doubt what we loved most about Pu Luong.
Before our trip, however, I had read several comments suggesting that Vietnamese people, particularly in the north of the country, could seem cold or unwelcoming.
Our experience was completely different.
From the beginning of our trip, we met warm, smiling people who were always willing to help. We never felt as though we were seen only as tourists. A smile almost always brought a smile in return. Honestly, the comments I had read before our trip didn’t reflect our experience at all.
The bamboo raft ride was relatively short, but it fit perfectly with the atmosphere of the day.
With only a boatman guiding the raft using a long pole, we slowly drifted along the river.
My husband even wanted to give it a try himself… and quickly realized that it required much more strength and technique than he had imagined!
We decided not to continue to the farther landing point since there didn’t seem to be much more to discover there. Instead, we simply enjoyed this peaceful moment on the water, surrounded by nature, with nothing but the sounds of the river and the birds around us.
On the way back, we crossed the rice fields one last time to reach the car.
Once again, we could hardly believe how beautiful the scenery around us was. It was impossible to get tired of views like these.
We absolutely loved this excursion, which lasted around three and a half hours. It was complete enough to discover some of Pu Luong’s highlights while still leaving us plenty of time in the afternoon to enjoy our accommodation.
💡 If this excursion interests you, there’s a very similar activity that you can book in advance through GetYourGuide.
The rest of our day unfolded at a much slower pace: some time relaxing by the pool at our villa, a massage at Pu Luong EcoLuxe Resort & Spa, which we had discovered and booked the day before during our walk, followed by a pleasant dinner at one of the restaurants in the area.
Day 15: Leaving Pu Luong for Hanoi
On our last morning, a storm had rolled through during the night, and when we woke up, the mountains were wrapped in thick mist. The atmosphere was completely different from the day before. The landscape almost seemed mysterious, as if the clouds had gently settled between the rice fields.
Since we had nothing planned before our departure in the early afternoon, we decided to enjoy Pu Luong one last time.
We went for another walk around the area, following more or less the same paths as the day before. And yet, everything looked different. The morning light, the mist still clinging to the mountains, and the almost complete silence gave the scenery an entirely new personality.
And honestly… it was impossible to get tired of it.
Around every corner, we stopped once again to admire the rice fields, the mountains, and the nature that seemed to stretch endlessly into the distance. Some places are beautiful the first time you see them, and then you move on. Pu Luong is one of those rare places where you could walk the same paths again and again without ever getting tired of what’s in front of you.
We also took the time to enjoy the view from our villa one last time. This scenery had surrounded us for two days, and it was already difficult to think about leaving.
Unfortunately, in the early afternoon, it was time to leave the region – and this beautiful little escape ended on a much less positive note with our transportation to Hanoi.
Even though we were the first passengers to board the limousine van, the driver refused to let us sit in the individual seats in the back. My husband and I therefore had to sit in the front with him, in a very cramped space—especially uncomfortable for my husband with his long legs.
The driver also refused to let my husband’s CPAP bag be stored with the luggage in the back. So we had to keep it with us for the entire journey, which lasted around 4.5 hours. Under the circumstances, that small bag ended up feeling surprisingly bulky.
The drive felt extremely long and wasn’t particularly enjoyable. The only real positive was the scenery along the way.
Unfortunately, we also found the driving very stressful. My seat belt was broken and impossible to fasten, while the driver spent a large part of the journey talking on the phone or looking at his cell phone—even during some overtaking maneuvers. I really didn’t feel safe. This didn’t happen to us often in Vietnam, although when you observe the traffic there, it isn’t entirely surprising either.
In this case, however, we were so disappointed with the way we had been treated that, for one of the rare times during our trip, we didn’t leave a tip.
In the end, we still arrived safely in Hanoi… and honestly, by that point, that was what mattered most.
If I Had Had More Time
If there’s one stop on our trip where I would have gladly added a few extra days, it’s definitely Pu Luong.
Not necessarily to check more activities off a list, but simply to keep enjoying this exceptional environment.
I would have loved to spend even more time walking through the rice fields, following different trails, discovering new viewpoints, and simply soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. This is exactly the kind of place where I don’t feel any need to rush from one attraction to another. Quite the opposite—I just want to slow down.
And that’s probably what I loved most about Pu Luong: you never feel like you’re wasting your time by doing… almost nothing. Sitting on the terrace, admiring the mountains, listening to the wind in the rice fields, watching the water wheels, or simply walking without a particular destination becomes an activity in itself.
Of course, there are also several places I would still love to discover on a future visit.
Depending on the time of year, you can visit Hieu Waterfall, which is especially worth seeing during the season when the water flow is stronger. During the drier season, several travelers mention that it can be much less impressive.
I would also like to discover the bat cave in Kho Muong Village, reached after a fairly steep climb and known for its enormous natural cavern. After climbing Mua Cave just a few days earlier, we decided to skip this hike… but it remains on my list for a future visit.
If your stay happens to fall on the right days of the week, I also think it would be really interesting to visit one of the local markets held by the ethnic communities in the region. Unlike more tourist-oriented markets, these offer a glimpse into a genuine gathering place where local residents come to trade, sell their products, and keep their traditions alive.
But ultimately, if I went back to Pu Luong tomorrow morning, I’m not even sure I would fill my schedule any more than I did the first time.
I think I would simply take even more time… to take my time. Because some places aren’t just meant to be visited. They’re meant to be experienced.
And for me, Pu Luong is definitely one of those places.
How to Get Around Pu Luong
Unlike destinations such as Hanoi or Hoi An, Pu Luong isn’t a place you explore by jumping from one attraction to another. Here, the journey itself is an important part of the experience.
🚶 Walking: In My Opinion, the Best Way to Discover Pu Luong
When it comes to exploring the villages, rice fields, and trails around your accommodation, nothing beats walking.
That’s actually how we got around most of the time, and I don’t regret it at all.
Walking allows you to slow down, take in the scenery, cross paths with local residents, listen to the sounds of nature, and fully immerse yourself in Pu Luong’s unique atmosphere. It’s a destination that’s meant to be savored rather than simply visited.
If, like us, you’re staying in the Don Village area, several walks are accessible directly from your accommodation.
However, keep in mind that the region is very hilly. Some climbs are quite steep and can be demanding, especially in the Vietnamese heat.
🛵 By Scooter: Great Freedom… Under Certain Conditions
A scooter is probably the mode of transportation that offers the most freedom for exploring the different villages around Pu Luong and reaching sites located a little farther away.
If we had been able to legally rent one, it certainly would have allowed us to explore more of the region.
Unfortunately, as I explained in my previous articles, the international driving permit issued in Quebec is not recognized in Vietnam. So we chose not to take any risks, both for legal reasons and because of insurance coverage in case of an accident.
However, if you have a recognized driving permit and are comfortable riding a scooter in mountainous areas, it can be an excellent option.
👩🌾 Guided Tours
If you want to visit several places in a single day, an organized tour is probably the easiest option.
That’s what we chose to do.
We had a local private guide as well as a driver who took us between the different points of interest. This allowed us to learn a lot about the region, its ethnic communities, and local farming traditions, without having to worry about transportation.
🚗 Private Driver and Transfers
If you don’t want to ride a scooter, hiring a private driver for a few hours is also a great option for reaching areas that are farther away.
For travel between Pu Luong and other destinations such as Ninh Binh or Hanoi, several companies offer transfers by minibus, limousine van, or private car.
In our case, our accommodation arranged all of our transportation for us, which made things much easier.
🚲 Cycling
Bicycles are sometimes available at certain accommodations.
Personally, it’s not an option I would have considered. The roads around Pu Luong are beautiful, but they’re also very hilly, with several particularly challenging climbs.
However, if you’re an experienced cyclist and enjoy routes with plenty of elevation, it can be a wonderful way to explore the region.
👉 My advice: Don’t try to see as much as possible. Pu Luong is a destination where slowing down is part of the experience. Give yourself time to walk, admire the scenery, and simply enjoy the atmosphere. That’s exactly what makes it so special.
Where to Stay in Pu Luong
For our stay in Pu Luong, we chose the Hanasa Pu Luong Resort, a property located in the heart of the rice fields in the Don Village area.
When we made our reservations -only a few weeks before our departure – we were deciding between this property and the Pu Luong Luna Resort, which also offered beautiful villas in a very peaceful setting at a similar price.
We ultimately chose Hanasa mainly because we could book a room with a private pool overlooking the rice fields. After really enjoying this type of accommodation in Bali, we wanted to treat ourselves to that little bit of luxury again for a few days in Vietnam.
And honestly… we didn’t regret it.
Our Experience
The resort is made up of small two-story villas. The ground-floor rooms have a small private pool, while the rooms upstairs feature a large balcony with beautiful views over the rice fields.
The resort also has a lovely shared infinity pool near the reception area and restaurant, which offers another beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.
The setting is especially peaceful. From the moment we arrived, we received a warm welcome from the staff, who also arranged our transfers between Tam Coc, Pu Luong, and Hanoi, as well as our private tour. This service made our stay much easier.
Our villa was spacious and comfortable and offered exactly what we were looking for: peace, privacy, and a view we never got tired of.
Dining
Breakfast was included with our reservation.
It consisted of a small buffet along with a few dishes prepared to order. While it wasn’t exceptional, it was perfectly fine.
The restaurant is also open for lunch and dinner. One interesting detail is that meals need to be ordered a few hours in advance. The menu is quite varied, and we were told that this allows the staff to pick up fresh ingredients from a market located about 20 minutes from the resort.
We had one lunch and one dinner there. The food was good, although it wasn’t among our favorite meals of the trip. That said, we were also nearing the end of our stay in Vietnam and, as often happens during a long trip, we were starting to crave a little more variety in what we ate.
Fortunately, a few local restaurants are within walking distance of the resort.
A Few Things to Know
The only real downside of our stay was during the first night.
When we entered the room, there was a strong musty smell. Since Pu Luong has a naturally humid climate, it wasn’t entirely surprising, but the smell was still quite noticeable.
As in most accommodations we stayed at in Vietnam, the air conditioning only worked when the room key card was inserted. So while we were away, the air stopped circulating and the humidity quickly built up again.
After leaving the bathroom window slightly open and using the air conditioning more while we were in the room, the situation improved considerably, and our second night was much more comfortable.
Would I Recommend This Accommodation?
Absolutely.
Despite that small inconvenience, we loved our stay at Hanasa Pu Luong Resort.
The setting is beautiful, the views are exceptional, the staff is welcoming, and the atmosphere truly invites you to slow down.
For us, the small private pool overlooking the rice fields was definitely the cherry on top. After our walks through the mountains, it was such a pleasure to come back, relax in the pool, and simply enjoy the scenery.
💲 Rate in March 2026: 5,914,490 VND (around C$275) for 2 nights in a Suite with Private Pool, breakfast included.
Where to Eat in Pu Luong
Unlike some other destinations in Vietnam, Pu Luong doesn’t have restaurants on every corner. Depending on where you’re staying, it’s a good idea to plan your meals at least a little in advance.
When we arrived, we weren’t really sure what options were available in the area, so we chose the easiest solution and had our first lunch and dinner directly at our accommodation.
Unfortunately, the food at Hanasa Pu Luong Resort was our biggest disappointment of the stay.
Breakfast, which was included with our room, was fine but nothing memorable. As for the other meals, they were decent, but we found the value for money rather disappointing. The prices were high for Vietnam and, in our opinion, the quality didn’t really justify the difference.
The restaurant also requires meals to be ordered a few hours in advance. The menu is very varied, and we were told that this allows the staff to pick up fresh ingredients from the market before preparing the dishes. It’s a great idea, but despite that, the meals didn’t particularly stand out to us.
The next day, after our excursion and massage, we decided to have dinner at a restaurant we had spotted during our walk the day before.
We chose the Pu Luong 0 KM Restaurant.
When we arrived in the late afternoon, the restaurant wasn’t open yet. In this area, several restaurants close between lunch and dinner before reopening around 5 p.m., so we came back a little later.
This time, the experience was much more satisfying.
The restaurant is spacious, nicely decorated, and offers beautiful views of the surrounding area. We were able to sit outside on the terrace and enjoy the scenery while we ate.
The food was good, the service was friendly, and the prices seemed more reasonable than at our accommodation.
It may not have been the best meal of our trip to Vietnam, but it’s definitely the restaurant we would recommend most in Pu Luong.
We also noticed that the restaurant seemed to be very busy at lunchtime. The day before, several tourist buses had stopped there at the same time, probably as part of organized tours. By choosing to go for dinner instead, the atmosphere was much quieter, and we were able to fully enjoy the experience.
💡 My Advice
If your accommodation has its own restaurant, don’t hesitate to explore some of the other places nearby as well.
There aren’t many restaurants in Pu Luong, but you can still find some good options within walking distance, often offering better value for money than some hotel restaurants.
In Conclusion
When I look back on our trip to Vietnam, I realize that some of the best memories aren’t always the ones we spent months planning.
Pu Luong is the perfect example.
Added almost at the last minute after quite a bit of itinerary juggling, this stop ultimately became one of the biggest highlights of our trip.
It wasn’t just the beauty of the landscapes that stayed with us, but everything this region made us feel. The peacefulness, the endless rice fields, the kindness of the local people, the slower pace of life, and that feeling of discovering a side of Vietnam that still felt deeply authentic.
If you’re planning a trip to northern Vietnam and wondering whether to take a day away from a big city and spend it surrounded by nature instead, I wouldn’t hesitate for a second to recommend Pu Luong.
For us, those two days were much more than just another stop on our itinerary. They became a true pause in the middle of our journey – a chance to breathe, slow down, and fully enjoy the present moment.
And if we ever return to northern Vietnam, there’s a very good chance Pu Luong will be part of our itinerary again… this time, for a few extra days.
