Vietnam Part Two: Three Days in Hoi An – Lanterns, Ancient Town, and the Vietnamese Countryside
Last updated on : June 13, 2026
Part Two: Hoi An
After our stay in Da Nang, we continued our journey through central Vietnam by settling into Hoi An for three nights, a destination that had been on my must-visit list since the very beginning of planning this trip.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hoi An is famous for its charming Ancient Town, colorful lanterns, well-preserved architecture, and unique atmosphere that seems to slow down time. After seeing countless photos, videos, and travel stories over the years, I felt like it was impossible to visit Vietnam without spending some time in Hoi An.
And honestly… I already understood why before I even arrived.
As I mentioned in my article about our Vietnam itinerary, we like to spend at least three nights in each destination whenever possible. It allows us to experience a place at a more relaxed pace, without constantly feeling like we’re rushing from one attraction to the next.
We therefore spent three nights and roughly three full days in Hoi An, giving us enough time to enjoy both the Ancient Town itself and the more rural countryside surrounding the city.
🎥 On Video: Hoi An, A Different City from Morning to Night
In this vlog, I take you through the many sides of Hoi An: the much quieter mornings in the Ancient Town, the lanterns lighting up the streets at night, the peaceful country roads winding through the rice fields, Tra Que Village, the Night Market, and our sunrise excursion to the My Son Sanctuary.
At first, Hoi An left us with very mixed impressions. Between the incredible charm of the city and the sometimes overwhelming tourist crowds, it was a destination we gradually learned to appreciate over the course of our stay… especially by taking the time to experience it at different times of the day and at different paces.
⚠️ The prices mentioned in this article reflect our visit in march 2026 and may vary over time.
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Day 3 : Arrival in Hoi An and First Impressions of the Ancient Town
After our morning in Da Nang, we left the city by Grab and headed to Hoi An, where we would spend the next three nights. The journey took about an hour and was very straightforward.
For our stay, we chose the Hoi An Merrily De Art Hotel, located slightly away from the main tourist area. This was a deliberate choice on our part. We wanted to enjoy the peace and quiet of the surrounding countryside and rice fields while still being close enough to the Ancient Town to reach it easily on foot.
And honestly, the location was perfect for that.
From the moment we arrived, we were welcomed with incredible kindness. The reception was especially warm, and we were given several recommendations for places to visit and restaurants to try in the area. Our room was already ready even though we had arrived a little early, which allowed us to settle in comfortably and immediately enjoy the beautiful view from our balcony overlooking the rivers and surrounding countryside.
After taking a little time to drop off our bags and catch our breath, we decided to walk to the Ancient Town to get our first glimpse of Hoi An. The walk took about twenty minutes and was very easy to do.
And that’s when our first impression of Hoi An turned out to be… mixed.
Before arriving, I already knew that Hoi An was extremely touristy. It is probably one of the most visited destinations in Vietnam. But even so, I wasn’t prepared for just how crowded it would be.
There were people everywhere.
The sidewalks were often blocked either by scooters or by shops and restaurant terraces, forcing us to walk in the street alongside scooters and cars. At times, it was even difficult to simply stroll around or stop to take photos peacefully.
And in that moment, I had a strange feeling.
It was beautiful… yet at the same time, I almost felt like I couldn’t fully enjoy the place because of all the tourist activity around us. I think I even felt a brief sense of disappointment, which surprised me considering how excited I had been to finally visit Hoi An.
Still, we continued wandering through the streets of the Ancient Town before stopping at the Precious Heritage Art Gallery Museum, a museum and photography gallery created by French photographer Rehahn.
And honestly… it became one of the biggest highlights of our stay.
Admission is free, and the place is absolutely beautiful. The portraits, traditional costumes, and stories on display introduce visitors to many of Vietnam’s ethnic minority groups and suddenly add a completely different human dimension to the experience.
That visit truly allowed us to slow down and find a sense of calm after the initial shock of the crowds in the Ancient Town.
After this first exploration, we returned to our hotel to rest for a while, have something to eat, and get ready for the evening.
Later that night, we headed back to the historic center to see Hoi An illuminated by its famous lanterns.
And suddenly… the atmosphere felt completely different.
Watching the colorful lanterns light up the streets and seeing their reflections on the river was absolutely beautiful. Even without taking the famous boat ride with floating lanterns, simply walking along the riverbanks was enough to fully appreciate the magic of the place.
We also wandered through the Hoi An Night Market, which is an experience in itself with its lively energy, street food aromas, and constant flow of people.
That evening, we had also booked tickets for the Hoi An Memories Show.
The venue itself is stunning, and the performance was very well produced. Although I personally found the ticket price a little high compared to the overall cost of living in Vietnam, I’m still very glad we went. Some sections felt a bit long, but many of the scenes were truly beautiful and visually impressive.
That first evening also helped us better understand the city and identify a few places we wanted to revisit more quietly the next morning.
In the end, our first day in Hoi An left us with mixed emotions: amazed by the beauty of the place, yet somewhat overwhelmed by the intensity of its tourism.
And yet… we already had a feeling that Hoi An would eventually win us over in a different way.
Day 4 : Discovering a Much Quieter Side of Hoi An
The next morning, we got up very early to return to the Ancient Town before the crowds arrived. And honestly… it completely changed our perception of Hoi An.
We arrived around 7:00 AM, and the atmosphere was nothing like it had been the day before.
The streets were calm, almost empty in some places, and we were finally able to fully appreciate the beauty of the Ancient Town. Even though many shops and attractions were still closed, we didn’t mind at all. In fact, it felt like we were discovering a completely different side of Hoi An – one that was far more peaceful and authentic.
We simply took our time walking around, admiring the architecture, taking photos, and filming without constantly having to navigate through crowds.
And it was probably at that moment that we truly began to fall under Hoi An’s charm.
After our morning stroll, we returned to the hotel to enjoy some time on our balcony, catch up on sleep after the busy start of the trip, and simply slow down.
In the early afternoon, we decided to explore the area around Tra Que Vegetable Village.
We chose to get there on foot, following the small country roads surrounded by gardens and rice fields. Looking back, we do regret not renting bicycles, as the area is perfectly suited for that kind of exploration. It probably would have allowed us to venture even farther, perhaps all the way to the beach.
But even on foot, the walk was absolutely beautiful.
Tra Que Village is known for its vegetable farms and its much more rural and tranquil atmosphere. The area is filled with gardens, peaceful pathways, and several places offering Vietnamese cooking classes and immersive experiences centered around local farming traditions.
It was a wonderful way to discover another side of Hoi An, far removed from the bustling energy of the Ancient Town.
After our walk, we returned to the hotel to enjoy some time by the pool and relax before the evening.
Since we had to wake up very early the next morning for our excursion to My Son Sanctuary, we decided to keep the evening much quieter.
We simply went for dinner at a restaurant recommended by our hotel before heading back to bed relatively early.
In the end, this slower and more relaxing day allowed us to discover a completely different side of Hoi An – one that felt much more peaceful and balanced than our first impression the day before.
Day 5 : From Sunrise at My Son Sancturay to a Relaxing Evening in Hoi An
That day began very early, around 4:45 AM.
Our excursion to My Son Sanctuary, booked through GetYourGuide, was scheduled to leave directly from our hotel at around 5:30 AM. Since it was before breakfast service, the kitchen was not officially open yet, but the cook was already preparing for the morning. I managed to get two bananas before leaving, just to have something in my stomach to start the day.
We traveled in a small group of about ten people, which was absolutely ideal. Once on site, there were only a few other groups of similar size, making the experience much more peaceful and enjoyable.
And honestly, we loved this excursion.
Our guide spoke excellent English, shared plenty of interesting information, and had a great sense of humor. The group was lively without being too large, and the overall atmosphere was really enjoyable.
Since we had visited the Cham Sculpture Museum in Da Nang a few days earlier, we already had a basic understanding of Cham culture before arriving at the site. That made the visit even more meaningful, as we were able to better understand what we were seeing.
And seeing My Son Sanctuary slowly illuminated by the soft light of sunrise made the experience even more memorable.
It was our first visit to a historical site of this scale in Vietnam, and it genuinely made us want to learn and discover even more during the rest of our trip.
After the visit, the excursion included a traditional Vietnamese breakfast at a small local restaurant before returning to Hoi An.
Personally, I have to admit that I’m fairly picky when it comes to certain textures and foods, so I ended up eating very little of the meal that was offered. My husband enjoyed the experience more than I did. That said, for travelers who enjoy discovering authentic local cuisine, it can certainly be a wonderful addition to the excursion.
We then boarded the small shuttle that takes visitors back to the main entrance of the site.
And that was when we realized just how wise it had been to leave so early.
By the time we were heading back, there was a huge line of visitors waiting to enter the site, and the heat was already becoming much more intense. Honestly, after experiencing My Son in the quiet calm of the early morning, I would not have wanted to visit later in the day with both the crowds and the heat.
For us, sunrise is definitely the best time to experience this place. 🌄
Back in Hoi An, we stopped for a more substantial meal since we were finally hungry after our busy morning.
Later that afternoon, we had a massage booked at a high-end spa recommended by the owner of our hotel: Ylang Ylang Spa, a place I had also come across during my research before the trip.
The experience was excellent.
The spa even provided transportation directly from our hotel, which was extremely convenient. After our massage, however, we decided to walk back so we could enjoy a little more of Hoi An’s atmosphere.
We strolled peacefully toward a riverside restaurant that we had noticed during our evening at Hoi An Memories Land a few days earlier.
And that evening really marked the moment when Hoi An began to completely win us over.
A wonderful massage, a leisurely walk, lanterns softly illuminating the streets, a quiet dinner by the water with illuminated boats drifting along the river… the atmosphere felt much more enjoyable to us by that point.
As we once again crossed through the Night Market on our way back to the hotel, we realized just how much our perception of Hoi An had changed since our arrival.
We were less tired, more accustomed to the city’s energy… and most importantly, we were finally beginning to fully appreciate its beauty and unique atmosphere.
Day 6 : Leaving Hoi An for Hue
The following morning, we left Hoi An and headed toward Hue with a private transfer that included several stops and visits along the way through the Da Nang region and the Hai Van Pass. The transfer was booked through GetYourGuide.
Since this part of the journey was more closely connected to the Da Nang region, I’ve already covered it in detail in my article about Da Nang and our transfer to Hue on Day 6.
If I Had More Time
Looking back, there is definitely one thing I wish we had done more of in Hoi An: exploring the surrounding countryside by bicycle.
During our stay, we mostly discovered the area around Tra Que Vegetable Village on foot, which was already beautiful. But after continuing our journey through Vietnam and realizing just how accessible and enjoyable cycling was in several other regions, we do have a small regret about not taking greater advantage of the bike paths and country roads around Hoi An.
The area is truly perfect for cycling.
From our accommodation, we probably could have easily reached the beach or explored other small villages and rural areas surrounding Hoi An. Between the rice fields, vegetable gardens, peaceful roads, and rivers, it seems like an incredible way to experience the countryside at a slower pace.
If I ever return to Hoi An, it’s definitely something I will make time for.
We also chose not to visit many of the historic buildings included in Hoi An’s Ancient Town ticket system. This ticket grants access to several temples, traditional assembly halls, and historic houses located throughout the historic center.
Normally, this is exactly the kind of sightseeing we enjoy. However, during our visit, the daytime crowds in the Ancient Town were so intense that we preferred spending our time soaking in the atmosphere, wandering through the streets, and exploring quieter areas rather than adding several indoor visits to our schedule.
That being said, if you have a particular interest in history, architecture, and cultural sites, these attractions would certainly make an excellent addition to a stay in Hoi An.
How to Get Around Hoi An
As in many places throughout Vietnam, there are several transportation options available in Hoi An. That said, Hoi An is probably one of the destinations on our trip that is best suited to slower travel and relaxed exploration.
On Foot
For us, walking remained our primary way of getting around Hoi An. And honestly, we loved discovering the city this way.
Walking always allows us to slow down, notice the details, absorb the atmosphere of a place, and stumble upon unexpected discoveries along the way. In a destination like Hoi An, where the atmosphere is such an important part of the experience, it fit perfectly with our slower style of travel.
Even though some areas can become very crowded – especially within the Ancient Town – there are many parts of Hoi An that are wonderful to explore on foot, particularly the countryside paths and the area surrounding Tra Que Vegetable Village.
By Bicycle
Looking back, cycling is probably one of the best ways to discover Hoi An and its surrounding countryside.
We considered renting bicycles during our stay, but ultimately chose to do most of our exploring on foot. However, after continuing our journey through Vietnam, we realized that we likely would have enjoyed discovering more of the Hoi An area by bike.
The country roads, rice fields, small villages, and peaceful pathways surrounding the city seem perfectly suited to this type of exploration. Cycling also makes it easier to reach places such as the beach and some of the more distant villages.
If we ever return to Hoi An, it is definitely something we would do more of.
Grab and Taxis
As elsewhere in Vietnam, the Grab app works very well in Hoi An and remains an excellent option for longer distances or when you simply don’t feel like walking in the heat.
We used Grab a few times during our stay, and it was always easy, reliable, and affordable.
Scooters
Scooters are also very popular in the Hoi An area, and many travelers choose this option to explore the surrounding region.
That said, as we often mention when talking about Vietnam, it’s important to remember that driving conditions can be very different from what we are used to in Quebec or elsewhere in the West. Depending on your situation, an international driving permit may also be required – ⚠️ please note that the international driving permit issued in Quebec is no longer recognized in Vietnam as of 2025.
Personally, we preferred to rely on walking, Grab, and organized transfers rather than riding a scooter during this trip.
Where to Stay in Hoi An
During our stay in Hoi An, we chose the Hoi An Merrily De Art Hotel. And honestly, it was an excellent choice for us.
If your priority is staying right in the heart of the Ancient Town, the location might feel a little farther away than some other options. However, in our case, we specifically wanted to avoid being immersed in the tourist crowds at all times while still remaining close enough to walk into town easily.
The hotel was located about a twenty-minute walk from the Ancient Town, which we found perfectly reasonable.
More importantly, the location allowed us to enjoy a much quieter and more peaceful environment.
The hotel sits near the countryside, north of the Ancient Town, creating a wonderfully relaxing atmosphere after a day of exploring. From our balcony, we had a beautiful view of the surrounding rice fields. It was the kind of place where you could simply sit for a few minutes in the morning or at the end of the day and quietly watch life go by.
For us, that view and sense of tranquility added tremendously to the overall experience.
The room was modern, clean, and comfortable, as was the bathroom. While it is not a luxury hotel, we felt it offered outstanding value for money considering everything it provided.
The included breakfast was also quite good. It wasn’t necessarily our favorite breakfast of the entire Vietnam trip, but it met our needs perfectly before heading out to explore the region.
What truly made our stay memorable, however, was the hospitality.
The owners were incredibly kind and welcoming from the moment we arrived. We genuinely felt that they cared about making our stay special. They shared numerous recommendations for restaurants, places to visit, and practical tips for exploring the area. They even helped us purchase tickets for the Hoi An Memories Show at a better price than what we had found online.
In the end, between the peaceful location, the beautiful views, the comfort of the room, and above all the exceptional service, this is a hotel we would sincerely recommend for a stay in Hoi An.
💲Price in March 2026: approximately 2,346,462 VND (about $135 CAD) for 3 nights in a Deluxe Room with Rice Paddy View, including breakfast.
Where to Eat in Hoi An
During our stay in Hoi An, we tried a few restaurants that were very different from one another, both within the Ancient Town and near our accommodation.
Ancient Remedy Restaurant
This restaurant, located in the Ancient Town, immediately caught our attention with its absolutely stunning décor.
Both the exterior and the interior feel like stepping into a beautifully restored old apothecary shop, with a warm and carefully designed atmosphere. Honestly, it was probably one of the most visually impressive restaurants where we ate in Hoi An.
The ambiance was wonderful, and we had a very enjoyable evening there.
As for the food, it was good, but perhaps slightly below the expectations we had after seeing the setting. It certainly wasn’t disappointing – far from it – but it ended up being more of an experience we appreciated for its atmosphere and décor than for being a major culinary highlight.
That said, the meal still left us with a great memory… especially because my husband took the opportunity to continue practicing his chopstick skills, which led to a few rather amusing moments. 😄
Tin Tin Restaurant
This small family-run restaurant, located near our hotel, was recommended to us by the hotel owners. And honestly, it turned out to be an excellent discovery.
The setting is much simpler and more modest than some of the more tourist-oriented restaurants in the Ancient Town, but the food was absolutely delicious. The prices were very affordable, and the family atmosphere made the experience especially enjoyable.
It’s the kind of place that may not impress you at first glance, but where you end up enjoying a truly good meal in a simple and authentic setting.
Phan Gia Restaurant
This riverside restaurant was probably one of our favorite places to have dinner in Hoi An.
We first noticed the area during our evening at Hoi An Memories Land, as several restaurants lined the river and created a truly beautiful atmosphere after dark.
On our last evening, following our spa treatment, we decided to walk back to the area and find a place where we could enjoy a quiet dinner by the water.
The setting was wonderful, with colorful lanterns, illuminated boats drifting along the river, and a much calmer atmosphere than some of the busier streets in the Ancient Town.
The food was excellent, the prices were very reasonable, and the service was outstanding from beginning to end. The young woman taking care of our table was especially kind and welcoming.
This is definitely a place we would recommend if you’re looking for a relaxing dinner in a beautiful setting while visiting Hoi An.
In Conclusion
Hoi An was probably one of the most contrasting destinations of our entire trip to Vietnam.
From the moment we arrived, we were a little overwhelmed by the intensity of tourism in the Ancient Town. Despite the beauty of the place, the crowds, the constant energy, and the busy streets took some getting used to.
And yet… the more time we spent there, the more we learned to appreciate Hoi An in a different way.
It wasn’t necessarily a city that instantly won us over within the first few minutes. Instead, it was a destination that slowly grew on us through our experiences, our walks, and the different atmospheres we encountered throughout the day.
We discovered several personal highlights during our stay.
Our visit to the Precious Heritage Art Gallery Museum was especially memorable. The walks through the rice fields, the peaceful atmosphere early in the morning, the lanterns softly illuminating the city at night, and the country roads around Tra Que Vegetable Village all allowed us to discover a gentler and more enjoyable side of Hoi An.
And of course, our excursion to My Son Sanctuary remains one of the biggest highlights of our time in central Vietnam.
In the end, despite its highly touristy nature, we still believe Hoi An is a must-visit destination when traveling to Vietnam.
But I genuinely think that to truly appreciate this city, you need to experience it at different times of the day and at different paces. Wake up early to enjoy the quiet streets, slow down a little, venture away from the busiest areas, and simply take the time to observe the atmosphere around you.
In our opinion, that is when Hoi An truly reveals its charm.
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